Pippa’s Trip Down the Nile- Butterick 5710

The couple of tops I have planned out as next had to wait. Butterick has their Hollywood inspired contest going on right now. I want to make a dress for that and to seek a bit of redemption from the last dress. I still have a nagging feeling that something is amiss with Vogue 2962. It ends on June 12th, so I know I am very late in starting. I only had 10 days to get the whole dress done (including lining). For my Hollywood inspiration, I picked out one of my favorite movies, Death on the Nile, from 1978. For those who haven’t seen it, it is based on the Agatha Christie novel by the same title. A group of strangers meet on a boat for a luxury trip down the Nile to explore ancient Egyptian ruins (watching the movie is like a mini-vacation the scenery is riveting). One person on the boat is murder and Hercules Poirot has to determine who did it.

The dress I picked to replicate was the one Rosalie wears during the disturbance in the saloon (trying not to give away too much details for those who haven’t seen the movie). It is a lovely peach bias cut evening dress with a cowl drape. I am using Butterick 5710, the one that is based on Pippa’s bridesmaid dress. Both evening dresses (the pattern and the movie) look absolutely stunning and classy in their full length to the floor silhouette, but I just don’t go to functions were that is appropriate. So I opted to do the short cocktail length. I can wear that at the murder mystery weekends and to work if I want to be really over-dressed.

To my surprise I am able to also submit this in the Pattern Review fabric stash contest. The fabric used is a pale peach pink wool crepe that I got from an on-line store. I have had it for about a year. The lining is white china silk that I got from a different on-line store recommended by several on pattern review. I bought that about October 2012. All total, I used 3.75 yards of fabric from my stash. Since I had wider silk lining than 45 inches, I just doubled the fashion fabric given on the envelope. It should be fairly close to what I used.

Recently, I received the Colette Pattern’s snippets email with 10 tips for bias sewing. It was a tremendous help for me with my first completely bias cut dress. I think I followed every tip provided (except maybe the first one of choose the right fabric since I already bought the fabric last year). I probably need to find smaller pattern weights than bean cans and artichoke cans. They got in the way when I was using my rotary cutter which was a dream when cutting the china silk.

I was able to find a roll of 1 ½ inch wide fusible interfacing to use on the zipper seam. I had seen several blogs that mentioned interfacing zipper seams for bias cut garments. In fact, I didn’t follow the order of the instructions. I did more of the 1960’s unit construction method. I went ahead and did all of the back first on the lining and the wool ( and put in the zipper on the wool). Then I went back and did the front like step one in the instructions.

Alterations:
1. Added length to the side seams about 5/8 inch to each side seam.
2. Reshape bust darts and lowered them
3. Pinched out a little on the upper front bodice
4. Pinched out extra length on waist of the back (about ½ inch)

Thank you to all the ones on Pattern Review who advised and helped me with fit. I will admit I didn’t follow the 1 inch seam advice, but that was because I just wasn’t able to sew a straight steady seam allowance of 1 inch. I need to figure what to put on my machine bed so that I am better able to reference where I should be sewing.

Most of the dress I have seen from this pattern have been more cocktail/ formal (bridal) wear. I sort of wonder if you could make this out of a cotton for a cute summer dress. Not considering the front cowl, it is pretty much a simple bias cut dress with Raglan sleeves. I think a cotton lawn should be able to drape for the front cowl. The envelope back mentions crepe, faille, and satin only.

I know a lot of people love to sew with knit fabric. I haven’t really explored sewing with knits yet. But I think this pattern would be do-able in a thin rayon knit. The only reason I say a rayon knit is because I have some dresses that I bought last year from Target in this material and it has the drape required for the front cowl. All the bias pieces would have to be cut on the grain (more likely). It probably would have to be a stable knit. I don’t think any thick knit would work. It would be an interesting experiment. I just don’t have the fabric for it right now and I don’t know if I am really interested in re-making this dress when I have a stack of other patterns I want to try.

I need to get back to more “practical” sewing like tops. Since it is Pattern Review’s fabric stash contest, I should go ahead and choose from the ruffle front blouse (Burda Style 04/2010), a 1960’s Simplicity pattern, or the peplum blouse (Burda Style 5/2010). All of those patterns I have matched with fabric I already have in my stash. I had thought about Savage Coco’s Halter top hussy pattern, but only my lining would be stash so I may wait until July for that one.

Also, I apologize for the lack of enthusiasm in the pictures.  But let’s pretend it is because I was stalking the murder from “Death on the Nile”.

Testing- Butterick 5710

 

  

So, last night I was able to finish up my muslin of Butterick 5710.  I wasn’t certain of any fitting changes I needed to make so I figured to test a straight size 14.  From what I can tell, it doesn’t look like I need any major fitting changes.  If I change the side seams to a quarter of an inch, I think it will work well.  Anything someone thinks I should consider?  I think the bubbles on the back are from inserting a zipper without stretching the bias or putting interfacing on the seam to help the zipper. 

Besides working on the Butterick pattern, I found perfect towels to monogram for my bathroom.  I still have two towels left to complete. 

Tonight, I probably won’t get to work on my dress since I need to make strawberry shortcake to take to work.  I am using my favorite recipe from Jennifer Patterson of the Two Fat Ladies.

Vogue 2960… Never Mind it’s Vogue 2962

Don’t let the sweet looking dress on the Vogue 2960 pattern envelope fool you.  This dress has more bite than one would realize.  I think it has became the monster under the sewing table.  I gave it a good try but it just was not meant to be. 

I found a linen in the spot the bolt sale.  I loved that it was a colorful floral and the fabric seemed to scream make me into a dress (preferably a full skirt one).  Originally $20 a yard, I got it for $4.00 a yard which worked out perfectly because I probably needed around 5 yards for a 1950’s style dress.  Somehow the stars seemed to be aligning. 

Before I even made a muslin, I had my dad measure ten inches from the back of my neck to see where the scoop came to.  The original pattern has the scoop going below my bra band, so I went ahead and raised it an inch when I cut out my first muslin in a size 14.  It didn’t turn out well at all.  Shoulders were falling off of me and I think I sewed the front facing wrong (maybe?).  I was afraid that there would be a lot of fitting work that would need to be done.  So then, I went ahead and checked out some other Vintage Vogue pattern.  I still came back to 2960 as my favorite.  Sort of solidify that I really want to put in the effort of all the fitting work before doing it.

I traced the bodice pieces on my roll of tracing paper.  As I was tracing, the only pattern change I made was make the shoulders a 12 instead of a 14.  I then picked out a second marker color and raised the scoop on the back pieces.  I got to use my brand new design ruler that I picked up at Joann’s in January.  The curves were so much easily to draw out.  I may have to get another one as a backup.  But this muslin didn’t really fix any of the problems I had.  It was still too far wide in the shoulders and too tight in the arms.  I didn’t even bother sewing the darts for the waist after that.  Those probably would have been too tight too. So by this time, I am at the point of not knowing what to do to get the fixes I need beyond re-drafting the entire pattern.  I don’t think my sewing and fitting skills are ready for that type of challenge yet.  Some monsters will just have to continue lurking in the corners of the sewing room.  I am not prepare to conquer them yet. 

 So going back on-line, I needed to pick out a new pattern.  I still want the full skirted style but no wide neckline now since I had troubles with Vogue 2960 already.  So instead I went with the halter neck style of Vogue 2962.  I shouldn’t have troubles with the shoulder area on this one.

 

This is very fitted but the sizing seems large on the bust.  I was able to use a size 12 for the bust area.  Then I graded out to the 18 for the waist.  I did have to go back and pinch in an extra dart in the back.  I probably need to pinch out some more in the back too.  I think that when I raised the back so it wasn’t too low, I caused all the problems with the back of the dress. 

 My other major design change was to switch the back closure from buttons to a zipper.  Seeing as I live by myself, buttons would not be so easy to fasten.  The one little problem with a zipper is with the weight of the skirt, I definitely need a hook and eye on there.  So I hopefully I will be able to use that on my own.  I put all the back pieces together first so I could use the sewing machine to put the zipper in.  The top of the zipper installation looks pretty good.  When one looks closer to the waistline and skirt, it isn’t as great.  The heavy gathers and the amount of material did not make it easy to put in by machine. 

 There is a long distance for the front skirt gathers.  In fact, I was thinking I would have 2 feet of fabric left after I cut my front skirt pieces.  But the front skirt pieces are cut on the fold so it took more fabric than I thought.  It used all the last of the fabric I had allot to this project.  After serging my silk lining to each piece, I started to work on gathering the skirt.  It took several tries to get all the skirt gathered. 

 I had shortened the skirt by 6 inches when I cut the pieces out.  After the first try on, I ended up taking off another ten inches from the hem.  I probably should have went with 6 inches instead.  Now the hem should be around knee length.  This dress is very heavy.  I didn’t figure a half inch horsehair braid would be enough to help keep the hem fluffy. An inch wide horse hair braid doesn’t seem to help much either.   I probably need to make me a really nice crinoline. 

I have all these red buttons already at home.  So I going to use a button closure on the halter instead of a snap.  I just need to make sure to reinforce the button area.  I want to use the Singer Professional buttonholer that I have for my Touch and Sew 775.  Since this would be the first buttonhole in a garment I want to use the Professional buttonholer because it makes it easy getting the lengths even and matching.  But before setting up the 775 with the buttonholer, I want to get another item that needs buttonholes too.  So this dress will have to wait for a while.  I have a 1960’s Simplicity pattern that I have made a muslin of and marked the fitting changes.  So Vogue 2960 will probably need to wait for that one before getting a buttonhole. 

Besides the fit in the back, there is something a touch off with the dress.  I think it is just that it needs a crinoline.  But those pictures do have me wondering. 

Ok, this was too cute to not go back and add.  I was taking pictures of this dress so a co-worker could see it.  My bunny, Lala, comes dashing across the room so he can be in the picture too. 

 Preview of projects to come:

Up next for sure is Butterick 5710 (yes the infamous Pippa dress).  Butterick’s Hollywood inspired challenge really caught my eye.  The fabric I have and the bias style of this dress should lend well to a version of Rosalie’s peach dinner dress in Death on the Nile (1976).  Of course for my lifestyle, I need to do the short version.  I don’t have anywhere to go for a long evening gown.  I was able to find a roll of thin fusible interfacing at Joann’s which should help me out a lot with getting a neat machine sewn in zipper. 

 Then, I want to make Savage Coco’s Halter top Hussy pattern in a halter top.  This was going to be next until I kept seeing the Butterick Hollywood Inspired challenge which ended up bumping this one back in the box.  I have picked out a lovely handkerchief linen for this top.  It should be very elegant for the summer. 

 For more practical sewing I have several different blouse patterns picked.

            They include: 

1. Doe and Deer’s Airelle Blouse
2. Simplicity 4923 (1960’s) blouse
3. Burda Style April 2010 Pattern 105
4. Burda Style May 2010 Pattern 128
5. Vogue 7403 (1960s) blouse

 Since one cannot consist on practical sewing alone, I have picked out:

1. Simplicity 6218 (1965) back cowl dress
2. Simplicity 5822 (1964) Chelsea collar dress
3. Butterick 4127 (1960s) rolled collar dress

 Also, I have an apron in the works.  I have been working on the hand smocking at work during breaks.  So that should help break up the practical sewing some.  And I will admit there are a couple more patterns loitering around in the ready to sew box like a night gown (Simplicity 5030) and a slip (Simplicity 4218) but they don’t have fabric already picked out or have been researched.

Maggie- a bracelet tribute to Natalie Woods

According to the introduction of this pattern in Creating Glamorous Jewelry with Swarovski Crystals, the pattern was inspired by a bracelet that Natalie Wood wore in the movie “The Great Race”.  I haven’t ever seen the movie.  The one time it was on Turner Classic Movies recently was when I wasn’t at home.  The picture in Jean Campbell’s book though looks very classy and the end result certainly didn’t disappoint at all. 

 This bracelet was specifically meant to go with the linen fabric I picked for a 1950’s style dress.  Since I wanted to be able to wear this bracelet with other outfits as well, I decided to go fairly simple with the color selections and only picked one of the colors from the dress fabric instead of two.  I used the last of my silver seed beads from the Olivia necklace.  Then I played with the plain and aurora borealis finish on my colored crystals. 

 I sat trying to figure out what I was supposed to do at Step 1 Curve part.  It just didn’t make sense.  The picture is only part of the component but I wasn’t really understanding which beads were the ones shown in the figure.  I kept trying until tragedy struck.  A size 15 silver bead said enough was enough and just broke.  So component one was taken apart to redo.  I then went ahead and skipped Step 1 Curve part.  From what I can tell, it may not be a necessary step.  My bracelet looks like it came out fine without this step. 

 I just could not put a snap clasp in another bracelet.  I have troubles putting on the bracelet I put a snap clasp on by myself.  This time I tried a mini magnetic clasp.  The little clasp is fairly flat.  Hopefully the little clasp will work well.  I couldn’t find anything else that looked like it would work. 

 Out of the four projects I have made from this book (Marlene, Olivia, Elizabeth, and Maggie), this is definitely the one I would recommend for a beginner.  Each link section only took about 20 minutes to make.  Each silver disc for the clasp was about 40 minutes.   Besides the Step 1 Curve, everything else is pretty easy.  After making a couple of links, you don’t even really need to have the book out to finish up the rest of the links. 

 This bracelet could look really cute (and perhaps modern) completed in a multiple colors. This may need to be considered for all the left-over 4mm crystal beads from previous project.  A burst of color should make a very spring inspired bracelet.   It would seriously be something to consider if I get to needing a quick bracelet for a special occasion or gift.  The look can be slightly different by adding more links in.  I really think this is the one I should make for my mom. It has a tennis bracelet look that she would like.  It may be intriguing to try using the links from this bracelet to make a band around a Christmas tree ornament.  It may be something to keep in mind when the next holiday season comes up.

 

(This was the best picture I could get quickly early this morning.)

It isn’t White Diamonds- Elizabeth bracelet

Another bracelet from “Creating Glamorous Jewelry” book.  This bracelet was pretty easy to put together. The only hesitation I have about recommending it for beginners is that the double wrapped wire loops on the pearl flower clusters have to be a similar size to a number 11 delica cylinder bead. I had very nice looking double wrapped loops, but they were the wrong size and I had to fix them.

The flower clusters were easy to create. But my nice round double loops did not fit in with my size 11 delicas well. So for every cluster, I had to smashed the double loops into an oval shape so that it matched the delicas width better. I am glad now that I continued making flower clusters until I ran out of Rosaline crystal pearls. I was able to get 30 clusters completed. I had about 4 clusters that I wasn’t able to use because the smashed double loop was done very poorly. Getting the pearl clusters’ double loop to fit well is the only problem I see a beginner having troubles with. It may be possible to get around problem by changing the bracelet base seed beads to size 8 delicas instead of size 11. This probably will give the clusters a bit of wiggle room but I am not certain if it would or how it would affect everything else. But it would be something to consider.

It is a substantial bracelet and is fairly heavy for a beaded bracelet. All together it probably took about 20 hours to complete. I actually had the flower clusters created back in February. It had to wait until I had a chance to get out to Overland Park to pick out seed beads and a clasp. Then I really only worked on it during breaks at work because it was too cold to go outside for a walk.

I haven’t added any leaves yet to the bracelet. I have been considering how to redo the leaves. I tried to make one following the instructions and the sides along the crystal were rolling around it so much while I was making it. I am guessing my square stitches were not securing the beads in between stitches. But I am glad that I haven’t added the leaves quite yet because I have an even bigger problem with the bracelet.

I absolutely dislike the clasp. I like that it is invisible. But the 8mm snap is so big that only one really fits on the band. The bracelet is pretty heavy so a single clasp point may experience a lot of pulling. I am afraid that the tugging and pulling of undoing the snap could cause the bracelet to break. But that may just be me worrying for nothing and the bracelet is stronger than I think it is. However, I really think I will end up re-doing this whole bracelet if I can find a better clasp. The snap is just too hard for me to put on myself and it takes several tries to be able to clasp it.

I dislike this clasp so much that I am not even going to try it on the next bracelet- “Maggie” from Creating Glamorous Jewelry with Swarovski Elements.

Flowers and Snow- Simplicity 1872 (Cynthia Rowley)

This was supposed to be posted well over a week ago after I got back from my trip, but I got a snow day from work so I was able to complete a version of this top in white also.   Then I just have no other excuse for the rest of  the delay. 

 This is the type of sewing I should be doing more of.  I admit I have a difficult time finding tops I like that fit.  I would be too big for a medium size in RTW but the large is too big on me.  I decided to make a sleeveless version of the top.  I really didn’t like the tie sleeves that are in view A.  But I wasn’t certain about how the sleeves in view C would look like either.  Anyways, I usually wear a cardigan about 90% of the time with a sleeveless top (at work 100% of the time).  So I would use a sleeveless top probably the most. 

 I had checked out several of the other reviews for this pattern on Pattern Review.  So I somewhat knew to expect going down a size in the pattern.  According to the pattern envelope, my measurements would have been a size 14.  But when comparing them to the finished garment’s estimates, I decided a 12 would be better.  With the 14, I would have had 8 inches of ease which seemed too excess since most of my reference manuals suggest somewhere between 3 to 4 inches of ease in bust.  Also, I followed what several other reviewers have done and added a thin piece of elastic in the waistband seam.  It really does help out a lot with the shape of the top.  It gives the peplum a little more definition.   Also, I hand sewed the wrap front pieces together so no one could see inside the top. 

 The one issue I didn’t expect was the shoulders.  The shoulders of the top are too big on me.  I should have graded down to a six.  I had this also in my Vogue 8789 pink plaid dress.  So this maybe an alteration I need to expect more  before cutting now.  I didn’t realize I had narrow shoulders before.  I will definitely need to look the narrow shoulders alteration up in my sewing reference manual before making another top. 

 I used rayon Challis for the pattern.  It was light was perfect weight for this pattern.  My serger didn’t seem to like a single layer thickness of the rayon Challis.  So I did use it to do the side seams of the top.  I maybe should have tried to use the serger for applying the neckline bias trim and the armhole bias trim.  They are a little bubbly and not perfect.  I didn’t bother going back and fixing it because I did want to stretch my pieces out too much.  Anyways, anyone I am really around won’t notice this flaw. 

 The pattern calls for a narrow hem at the bottom of a light weight fabric.  The next day I wore my new top to run a couple of errands on a wind advisory day.  So everyone who was in the Target parking lot at 8am on a Sunday morning got to see the wind blow the bottom of my top up.  That hem has no weight at all (or at least not against 30 mph wind gust).  Luckily for me, I did have another pink tank top on underneath.  So my other recommendation is to watch the weather on the news before deciding to wear your version of the top.  When I wore it to work, I stuffed a safety-pin in my purse to use as a counterweight just in case. 

 Now for the snow version.  I used the size 12 everywhere except for the shoulders where I used a size 6.  I used the serger to apply the bias trim to the neck line and armhole.  I have one mistake and sewed up the side seams before finishing the bias trim.  I should have switched to my sewing machine finished the bias, then done the side seams.  Now you see the serger seam.  I will probably go back and cover it up with some white trim. 

Snow version

 A size 6 still seems a little big in the shoulders.  So it is something to watch for if you complete view A or view C.  View B is cut on the bias, so I am not sure how that would affect everything.  I possibly needed to cut the bodice pieces on the bias like view B?   It may be something to experiment with later. 

 I would consider making this again if I needed a quick top.  I would still have to work on fit at the shoulders, even with a size 6 there, it seems a touch too big.  To advance my seamstress skill, this may be the top to consider making for my sister.  It isn’t overly complicated for fitting and doesn’t require buttons or zippers.  First, I am going to have her try on my top and gauge her opinion of if she likes it before even considering making her one.

Fringed Expressions- “Olivia”

Compared to the Marlene bracelet I made from the same book, “Creating Glamorous Jewelry with Crystals” by Jean Campbell, Olivia is so much easier to put together.  But you still get the same high impact stunning piece at the end.  I think that is what I liked the most about the projects in this book.  In the end you get a statement piece of jewelry that can almost literally speak for itself and pairs well with a simple outfit.  I originally planned this necklace as a complement to the pink plaid Vogue 8789 dress previously posted.  But I am hesitant about pairing the two together; since both pieces are very bold.  I think I can find a better piece of jewelry to match up with my plaid dress.

All total, the Olivia necklace most likely took around 12 hours for me to make. Olivia is probably more intended as an advanced beginner/ immediate beading skill level pattern.  One would at least need to feel comfortable with the peyote beading stitch before attempting the toggle ring.  Otherwise everything else is pretty easy.  The fringe and chain are just simple stringing methods.  The toggle bar is a simple zipped up peyote stitch tube.  But before zipping up the tube, put in the end loop when it is easier to repeat your thread path on a flat surface. 

 

The sculptural peyote stitched ring was only 7 rounds on each side so it didn’t take too long to create.  You only need two rings, but I did make this three times.  The first time, the double bead stitches were angled out and not laying flush with the rest.  So it didn’t look very good.  After I loosened up the tension on the first 3 rows, it came together much better looking.  I probably should have made the ring a fourth time, but the second and third tries were adequate and didn’t look too terrible. 

My first toggle bar broke when I sort of pieced everything together (to get an idea of what it looked like) on one strand of the crystals.  It broke because I didn’t get enough thread passes through the loop.  It was tough to get the needle through the beads on the curved bar.  So the second time through, I went ahead and did the loop before zipping up the tube.  This worked much better and I was able to get about 5 passes through the loop.  It felt very secure and not likely to break.  Another change I made to the toggle bar was to make it a total of 32 beads wide instead.  The bead width given in the book, was very similar to the width of the toggle ring, so I was concerned that it would be able to slide out and I lose the necklace.  A wider bar eliminates that concern.  

After the clasp break, more troubles came.  Lala decided he was going to hop up on the couch and throw the necklace and my bead board off.  Every time I would put him on the floor, he would come right back up to terrorize the bead.  Eventually, I won out on and he left the beads alone.  But that was after he got a hold of the necklace and chewed the flexible wire.  The wire needed to be replaced and the bunny got a stern lecture and put in his cage for the rest of the night.  Then karma came and got me back.  As I was putting Lala’s bedtime blanket over the cage Sunday night, the blanket caught the edge of the bead board and knocked it off of the shelf sending bead scattering all over the carpet.  So I was on the floor looking for and picking up beads from the carpet.  At least I bought extras of the bi-cones.  I think I found all the scattered beads, except for the two beads I found in his cage when I cleaned it out later. 

I made some changes to the beaded chain of the necklace.  Since I was playing with rose crystals, rose aurora borealis crystals, and clear aurora borealis crystals, I made my three strand different.  If it was a rose-colored crystal strand, I used the silver as the main seed bead color (pulling back in the silver of the toggle ring).  For the clear strand, I used the metallic pink seeds as the main color.  I did lengthen the necklace strands.  Before and after each briolette, I added a single seed of the opposite color.  So for pink crystal strands, it was the pink seed and it was the silver seed on the clear strand.  It added just enough length to the necklace that the longest fringe hits at just the right spot above the bust.  The original length was a bit too choker length for me.   I didn’t see myself wearing something that clings around my neck. 

This was the first time I have used crimp beads since probably 1997 or 1998.  Back then when I learned to use them, I thought they were too hard.  There could have been a lot of changes to the beads since then, or maybe I just have better coordination skills now.  I didn’t really have any problems crimping the beads.  There is a minor gap between the seed beads and the crimp beads.  But overall, it doesn’t distract or take away from the necklace’s impact at all.  I did crush two seed beads by accident when I did crimp the necklace.  They were caught in the backside of the crimping pliers and I didn’t notice it. 

I doubt I will make another version of this necklace, unless a friend or my sister needs a statement piece of jewelry like the Olivia pattern.  I just don’t think it is possible to make another version and it be able to have its own unique piece.  Any future version would just make people remember my pink version of this necklace.  I just realized that the people I am around the most are guys so chances they wouldn’t notice a minor detail like this are fairly slim.  Granted a couple didn’t even notice major details like drastic hair cut changes.  So I would probably be ok if I wanted to make another Olivia necklace for myself.  But it isn’t really necessary.  I really do love the beaded projects in this book.  I went ahead and ordered the beads for the Elizabeth Taylor “Apple Blossom” bracelet and “Maggie”  a tribute to the bracelet worn by Natalie Woods in “The Great Race”.

I thought this was a Garden Party… Vogue 8789

The night before pulling out the fabric for this project, I had some cotton out practicing with my rotary cutter by making a quilt block. (A side note, that finished quilt block is missing. I should probably send out an APB on it, more likely a CCR (clean the craft room).) Suddenly, my new little pet decided he was going to help out. I think he wants to be a debutant in the sewing community. Sewing community, this is Lala. He came home with me in October. He apparently has a love for helping out with crafts, throwing items (especially remotes) off the couch, getting into mischief, and thinking he is in charge of the power cord for the sewing machine (he doesn’t like the serger though). I think I have finally broke him of the bad habit of trying to chew the power cord but he sits right next to it and me as I am sewing. If I end up with a needle through my finger, it will be because I was too busy watching the bunny and power cord not focusing on the needle like I should.

On to the finished project, here is Vogue 8789 in a pink plaid silk taffeta.

It is a reprint from 1957. Vogue describes it as a pull over dress with a bias cut fitted bodice in view A which is the view I made. Vogue give you an unlined dress in this pattern. The neckline facings are attached to the bodice pieces so that they are cut out in one piece. Since I was using silk taffeta, I consulted everyone on Pattern Review as to if silk taffeta needed to be lined. They suggested to line it for better use. I picked up some silk lining also from a different online store.

Vogue rates this as an easy pattern. I think that is an appropriate rating. I started this on Saturday January 12th. By the end of the weekend, I had about the whole dress done and that was including several 30 minute breaks so the bunny could get out and play. He wasn’t allowed out of his cage while the silk was out. I was just missing back of skirt, skirt lining, horsehair braid, and waist stay. My progress slowed down after that weekend because I had to go back to work and hand sewing.
I should have been able to get everything done in a week if I had been better prepared with what I wanted to do. But since I wasn’t sure about doing two skirt panels or four, I didn’t have everything cut at the same time and had to go backwards to cut and serge edges. Also, I had a bit of a bunny dilemma. Monday night as I was preparing to cut the last of the silk, Lala had a tantrum in his cage and threw his litter pan across the cage. He wanted out to play. I didn’t want Lala out because I was afraid he would get dirt on my silk. He kept repeatedly throwing the litter pan after I would put it back so I had to keep putting his litter pan back while cutting. After I had everything cut taking 30 minutes instead of 10, I had to let him out so he wouldn’t tear the cage apart. I didn’t get my dress complete until February 4th. I could have possibly finished it over the weekend, but I went out to my parents’ house. I just didn’t feel comfortable enough with the Singer Futura 920 which is set up to operate on a knee peddle. I didn’t want to take chances with my creation just getting ruined because of unfamiliarity with a sewing machine.
The dress fabric is a silk taffeta I got from an online fabric store. I haven’t really used silk before this dress. I did noticed that my fabric had a great tendency towards fraying. So this did worry me a little. I went ahead and put the serger over all the edges to prevent fraying. It also made it much easier later to do narrow rolled hems with the horsehair braid.
Since this was a pricier fabric, I went ahead and made a muslin in size 14. I probably made the muslin back in September. After several months of not looking at it, I probably had a more objective opinion when it came to fit. So now for modifications-

• I had troubles with the front gaping- so I took about an inch off the length in the shoulders (so probably about a size 6 in the shoulders).
• I added 2 inches length back in under the bust. The finished dress has a wrinkle right at the bottom of the bodice so my 2 inches should have been more of a 1 ½ inch or less instead.
• I took about 10 inches off the hem.
• Since I was doing a lining, I didn’t bother with the arm facings.
• I hand sewed the neckline facings to the lining.
• I opted to do a narrow hem with half inch polyester horsehair braid in it instead of the 3 inch hem. I am trying to get all the fluff possible out of the skirt. That is why I went with all 4 panels in the skirt. Most of the versions I have seen online only used 2 panels. I haven’t decided if it needs a crinoline yet or if I am up to the task of making a crinoline.
• I didn’t add a waist stay yet. I need to look into some more tutorials for this to be sure I am inserting it in correctly. I think my original try wasn’t doing what it was designed to do because I placed it too high.
So there is one “mistake” on my dress. In trying to conserve fabric and line up everything evenly, I flipped the grain line on the back pieces which changed the color order from purple above pink to pink above the purple. I didn’t notice it until I had the entire bodice assembled. All the lines are matched up pretty evenly that I don’t think this one item will be noticeable by anyone who would see the dress.  The only place you can really tell is at the side seams.   I did test out this out on my parents and they couldn’t tell until I actually showed them. Otherwise, all the plaid stripes line up very well. But for anyone else making it, all arrows need to point the same direction.

The oddest part was the skirt lining pieces would not gather at all. I used china silk for the lining; it is possible that I needed to use a different stitch length than my normal basting length of 7. I had my two lines of basting stitches for the gathers. Every time I would pull the bobbin thread to gather, the fabric would just slip out of the stitches. I got some of it gathered properly. For the parts I couldn’t get to gather well, I had lightly gathered and sort of pleated it into the area I wanted.

I absolutely adore this dress. It has the potential of knocking the coral Simplicity 5267 from 1963 (http://sewbeading.wordpress.com/2012/04/09/simplicity-5267-1963-dress/) out of the position of my favorite dress I have made. But that is a tough competition. I can realistically see me making this dress again if the right fabric came along or if I had another special occasion requiring a new dress. It could be a cute cotton summer dress but the weight of the cotton material could be an important factor to consider. My silk taffeta was fairly thin and very crisp. So a thick cotton would probably not work easily. For a thicker cotton to work, the skirt would definitely need to be re-drafted so that it was lighter. All the skirt gathers would weigh it down too much.
I wonder if it would work as well in a knit fabric. Knits are not one of the recommended on the pattern envelope. I would imagine the bodice would work in a knit. The gathered skirt is very questionable. I just don’t have the experience with sewing knits to be positive if it would work. Last summer I had troubles finding appropriate sun dresses to wear to work when I had an allergic reaction to scented laundry soap. This style would be very work appropriate if made in a knit fabric.
Vogue 8789 should work well as a base for a fitted costume bodice. I had made a French maid costume from a different pattern before and felt that the top was not the most flattering. This bodice would have looked a lot nicer than the puffy one in my costume pattern envelope which made me look like a burnt marshmallow.
A special thanks to my co-workers. Not only did they allowed me to dress up and get my project pictures taken at their Wednesday night social but they also used my ultra fussy camera. Trust me, that camera is a pain. I have threatened to replace it multiple times. There was a reason it was in clearance when I bought it. It doesn’t like not using a flash, doesn’t take pictures immediately after taking one (the wait sometimes means I miss what I wanted) and so much more pickiness. Don’t worry about the dress. I changed immediately after the pictures. I didn’t want to chance spilling anything on my pretty silk dress. It is a nice change from me having to figure out where in my house to do pictures; hopefully you enjoyed the pictures too.  Granted I took pictures of it at home too by myself.
Next up was suppose to be Vogue 2960, but I left my tracing paper out at my parents’ house which means I can’t work on fitting changes this weekend. So I will probably work on the Cynthia Rowley top in rayon challis instead over the weekend.

It is hard being a Groundhog!

So I am still trying to put my finishing touches up on Vogue 8789 or as I have been calling it to my friends, the pink plaid dress.  Next Wednesday I hope to get pictures of my dress.  The current bead project is about half way done also.  As of right now, there are no newly completed projects to blog about.  In the mean time, enjoy this:

 In the demise of the coloring contest (apparently no one I worked with liked to be creative), Phil and Phyllis moved in to take over as hosts for the Groundhog’s Day pizza party (yes we do celebrate Groundhog’s day at my work).  The first year was tough on the poor Phil and Phyllis as they try to be taken seriously in this harsh office environment.  They received threats of being shot at with rubber bands (even now they don’t travel to the 12^th floor where they may be shot at) and were never taken in as integral part of the Groundhog’s day celebration.

 Phil and Phyllis needed to get an outfit that would make them fit in with their surroundings.  In a construction related world, they needed orange vest and hard hats!  I was their seamstress and created this outfit for them a couple of years ago.  Their lovely vest feature French seams, and a bias trim hem. 

 

Pre-party off-site fashion shot

Pre-party off-site fashion shot

Pre-party off-site fashion shot

strutting down the gray cube halls

 

And they were kind enough to lend a vest and hat to Cozy Heart Penguin so Cozy could manage the money can at the Bureau holiday party (the poster was penguin themed so keeping with themes).

 

Marlene

All the projects in this book, “Creating Glamorous Jewelry” are based off of jewelry from Hollywood legends like Marlene Dietrich, Vivien Leigh, and Olivia de Havilland (just to name a few). Seeing that I have a love for classic movies, I thought it would be a perfect book to have.  The Marlene bracelet is based on one of Marlene Dietrich’s emerald bracelets. The beaded creation is as eye-catching as the original. I should be able to get a lot of wear out of it with jeans, top/ cardigan, and heel. It dresses up any simple outfit.

“Marlene” bracelet from Creating Glamorous Jewelry”

It wasn’t until after I was finished that I came across an interview for About that the author mentioned this as one of the more challenging pieces she had created. So I will mark down all the differences between the book’s version and my own to that and not user error like I originally thought.

The pattern in the book is designed for a 6 1/4 inch bracelet. So anyone making this will need to lengthen it. When I worked at a jewelry stand, 6 1/4 inch bracelet was classified as a child’s length. A standard size bracelet is usually 7 inches; which is what I lengthened this to.

First part to make was the focal bezel.  Instead of the peyote setting I am use to, this pattern called for a right angle weave bezel.  I wasn’t able to follow step #1 exactly.  All total I used 34 right angle stitches instead of the 28 listed in the book.  I had switched out the seed beads for delica beads so that could be the reason but I don’t think it was the cause of my restart.  When I had used the seed beads, the 28 units was just too small for bezeling the focal 22x 30 mm crystal.  Be aware just in case this wasn’t all my fault if you make this pattern. 

My next word of advice for this pattern is it is very fickle with tension. Each of the side components with the 2mm indigo crystals were probably made about 3 times because I broke the thread and there was no way to repair it. The whole piece just started to unravel when the thread broke.  After all the repeated practice, I was able to make the side components in an hour. 

For the outer band stem connection, I wasn’t quite sure what the directions were telling me to do. From what I think I understand now, is that the herringbone tube should have been 12 beads instead of 6. I really slowed down progress on this bracelet when I started to wonder if it would be able to clasp without breaking.  In all, this was probably around 40 hours of patiences. 

Assorted Fun

So I have several little assorted crafts to display today. 

First up is the wine glass charms, I made these in early November for my mom (and me, I knew she would try to give me some of the ones I made her).  I had seen the new inspiration projects on the Fusion Bead website and the Fleur de Lis Wine markers looked extremely simple to make.  All the crystal beads were from stash that I had.  So at the craft store all that I picked up was continuous earring hoops, jump rings, and charms.  They are extremely easy to make.  I think of all 20 or so I did, it took less than an hour plus time for rummaging through the bead stash. 

http://www.fusionbeads.com/Fleur-De-Lis-Wine-Markers
 

Next up is part of my sister’s Christmas present.  It won’t hurt to share this early because I don’t think she reads this.  But just in case she does, stop reading this post Michelle.  I bought kitchen towels from the store.  I got out the Singer Deluxe Monogrammer for my older sewing machine.  After making sure I had enough thread (very important step) and a sample, I went ahead and monogrammed a towel with her initial and one with the boyfriend’s initial.  I used a zigzag stitch width of 5 and the very tip of the fine triangle on the machine for stitch length.  Since it was so fun, I went ahead and did the third towel with the flower cam.  (The spots are just fray check, those dried and didn’t show).

The towels sort of make me want to get an embroidery machine now.

Last small project has been reusable fabric tea bags.  I have a lot of loose leaf tea but really don’t want to get out the glass infuser teapot every morning.  So hopefully this will help out.  The instructions I found on-line were really good.  I used a light weight muslin for the bags.  I used beads I had in my stash and ran out of larger holed beads for the thread.  I need to get some more for the other bags at home waiting to be finished. 

 

Here is the instructions I used:
http://lillyella.blogspot.com/2009/05/crafting-reusable-tea-bags_19.html

Tea & Cupcake

I actually had this completed a weeks ago but I couldn’t post it until after my work’s Christmas party.  I didn’t want to spoil the surprise.

The pattern is Butterick 5579, which is a re-release of several 1950’s apron patterns (it is now out of print).  I have made the apron back in late December last year so I did know what to expect when sewing it.  It is a very easy to sew pattern.  The only thing I notice on my previous version was that the pockets gape a bit so lining the pockets works out better.  Otherwise the inside of the pocket as per the pattern is very under finished,  I loved that it is an one yard pattern- which makes it perfect for gifts.  Usually I make an apron every year for my work’s Christmas party.

But I didn’t want to give a plain apron.  So this was a perfect chance to try something new.  I embroidered designs on the pockets.  I have been trying to make items that are more personalized and have started to look at embroidery as the means to this end.  So it all started with the Singer Deluxe Monogrammer from the late 1960/ early 1970s (blame the ones on Sewing Pattern Review because until then I didn’t even know about the different attachments for my older machine), then I decided to get more adventurous.  While rummaging through the book section at Hancock fabric, I came across Doodle Stitches The Motifs.  It was too intriguing to put back, so it ended up in the basket with the spot the dot bolt of linen (a $20 fabric on sale for $4) I found in the tables.  The spot the dot fabric sale at Hancock is too tempting so warning to others you probably won’t leave the area empty-handed.

My dad modeling the apron

After cleaning the craft room, I picked a fabric and pattern out of the stash.  I even went through the scrap box and found the perfect aqua cotton to match the fabric.  The Doodle Stitches book is on bookshelf just gnawing at me that the aqua fabric would be a better embroidery background than a pocket lining.  So the stripe fabric became the pocket lining and the aqua the outside.  Since the finished product was going to be an apron I decided a cupcake would be perfect.  But both pockets couldn’t be matching, so I also chose the teacup for the second pocket.

I really haven’t ever embroidered before.  I currently have a Care Bear counted cross stitch sitting on my living room end table half completed.  So I was at least familiar with cross stitch and back stitch.  There was enough instructions and pictures in the basics section of this book for me to easily learn chain stitch and split stitch.

My co-workers even got a cute little crystal rivioli star ornament for the Christmas tree.

Halloween-

This year, I chose to theme costume for me and my dog Toby.  After getting approval from my parents whom Toby lives with, we decided to do a Carmen Miranda and mariachi band member. 

So for Toby, I didn’t want to do anything too heavy.  Halloween is on a Wednesday so it is possible that he is going to daycare to play with his little doggie buddies.  I wanted to make sure he wasn’t going to overheat from his costume if my dad lets him wear it to daycare.  So I decided to go with leg warmer sleeves with ruffles, a poncho cape, sombrero.  Toby probably wants to beat me with the sombrero because he absolutely hates hats.  His leg warmers were made out of cream satin.   I was watching “Another Thin Man” movie (William Powell and Myrna Loy), I noticed the Cuban dancers with ruffles all over.  That gave me the idea of double ruffles on the bottom of the leg warmers. 

Wheels in my head started turning when I had leftover linen from my two 1960s dresses that I am still working on.  So that was used as the ruffle trim on the skirt.  It was probably too busy to do both the skirt and ruffles from.  I am pretty short so a full length ruffled skirt would have definitely overwhelmed me.  I made the skirt with an elastic waistband this is after all a costume so there was no need to make it too complicated.  That fruity turban took a lot of thought and consideration.  I just was not certain of the best way of achieving it. 

I even posted on Pattern Review website to get ideas from more experienced seamstresses.  

Alright, it doesn’t look like I will get the Carmen Miranda costume completed.  I lost motivation when I didn’t have anywhere to really wear it to.  I don’t really get trick-or-treater either so finishing a costume that only one trick-or-treater sees doesn’t really make sense.  I have all the materials at home for whenever I decide to actually finish it.  I have 1/2 the skirt finished just needing a ruffle.  So it may get done after a couple other dresses.

Murder Mystery Weekend

I am still working on Halloween costumes for me and Toby (my family dog).  Since I don’t have a Halloween party to go to, I haven’t been rushing to hurry on both costumes.  Toby’s costume is completed.  I still need to get pictures of him for the Pattern Review costume contest.  I need to finish 2 parts of my own costume still.

As to the beading front, I am still working on the Marlene beaded bracelet from Jean Campbell’s book “Creating Glamorous Jewelry with Swarovski Elements: Classic Hollywood Designs with Crystal Beads and Stones”.  It is coming along very slowly.  So far it looks very pretty.  Hopefully it will be done before Thanksgiving or I will have to stop to work on the beaded ornament I usually make for my work’s holiday party white elephant. 

So in the meantime to tie everyone over, I will recap my murder mystery weekend down in the Ozarks.  This time it was at the Lodge of the Four Seasons in Lake Ozark Missouri.  The previous two I have gone to were at the Elms Resort and Spa in Excelsior Springs Missouri.   The Lodge of the Four Seasons was beyond what I expected.  I was guessing a cozy little hotel.  It wasn’t.  It had valet parked my car for free and the room had a balcony.  I haven’t ever had a balcony before in a hotel room.  It was perfect for taking some fall color tree pictures. 

Friday night was the cocktail party.  The cocktail party was pretty causal but I at least bought out There were several of us that had participated at previous murder mysteries at the Elms.  So at least there were some familiar faces in the crowd.  There was about 50 people at the event this time.  Much more than my last one in April.  A hit man opened the door a crack and shot one of the guest at the party.  Our detective, Lt Detective Enoch Calhoun comes in to get the account of what happened.

In the morning the detective comes back and informs us that the Lake Ozark police have their annual fishing derby over the weekend and he will be the investigating detective.  Breakfast on Saturday just recapped the details of the previous night and the new note that was found when cleaning up the previous night.

Lunch was more interesting.  The detective updates us on his case and another found note.  Then he leaves for a call.  A guy comes in to talk to a person in the room and leaves.  The detective comes back.  Then the guy comes in again.  The cop tells the outsider to take a seat and he takes the seat of the person he was talking to.  The outsider takes a drink of iced tea then staggers out of the chair deathly sick.  The valet drops a notebook and we find out that he is a bookie.  The person in our group talking to the bookie owed $75 000.  A little old lady in her 90’s owed the bookie $10 000.  And lastly a $1.98 was owed by a guy from Arkansas to the bookie.

So Saturday’s dinner is more formal.  I actually wore the 1963 coral dress I made with a cardigan, sandals, and a beaded bracelet I had made.  ( I should have had my mom take a picture but I forgot.  So I will try to dress up at home in the same outfit so everyone can see how the dress and bracelet looked together.)  At dinner we were informed that the bookie was dead and up-dated on the detective’s case. The third murder occurred during dinner.  We all had to run over to the computer area and see the dead guy (the one talking to the bookie at lunch) stabbed 9 times with a steak knife.  We got the final clues then told to solve the murders.

I didn’t get the correct people as the murders.  Anyways the ones who did commit the crimes didn’t want to get to close to me since I solved the first one I went to.  The killers were involved in my last murder weekend at the Elms in April so I didn’t figure they would be involved in a second weekend so quickly.  So far 1 out of 3 weekends correctly solved. 

***The whole weekend was pretend murders and crimes.  The events covered over the weekend are all fictional.

Tragedy Strikes- Muska-terrier to the Rescue!

So, tragedy struck on Thursday when my serger decided to throw a tantrum and mess up its timing.  So it is at the sewing machine doctor getting fixed.  So it looks like sewing may be slow until it returns. 

Beading front has been going backwards.  I forgot to take the correct book out to my parents house over the holiday weekend so I wasn’t able to get the last of the necessary supplies for a couple of projects.  I have one completed project but it needs to be fixed so I will wait before blogging about it.

So, for a new post, I have been rescued by my muska-terrier Toby!  Toby is my family Scottie who lives with my parents.  Last year I made him a costume for Halloween.  Basically it was a rectangular cape with a fleur-de-lis iron on and an elastic cording.  I also made the hat and the belt.  His sword was store-bought from Target. 

Toby wasn’t too fond of the hat or sword but he at least looks adorable!

Simplicity 5986- Tie Collar dress (1965)

Simplicity 5986- Tie Collar Dress (1965)

Alright, I was so jealous of all the ones that get great action shots of themselves at parks, museums, beaches and wherever.  Here is my best attempt with just the camera, camera timer, and me.  Best I could do was go out to my little patio for the photo shoot.  There I could balance my camera on the edge of my vertical garden pot to take the pictures.  Yes, it is hot tea in the cup and it was 93 degrees outside.  Ice tea probably would have been a better prop just I didn’t have any made up. 

I had two different fabrics to choose from a light lavender herringbone weave suiting or the darker lavender linen look rayon/poly blend.  I ended up deciding on the linen look rayon poly blend just because I have used that fabric type more and am familiar with it.  Nothing against the other fabric, but for the pattern stash contest over on Pattern Review I wanted to stick with what I knew.  Just that I didn’t get it done in time to include it in the contest.  I was only half way finished by the end of the contest.

So I have a size 14 1/2 which is really close to my own measurements.  To be on the safe side and not to do a muslin, I went ahead and added an inch to the pattern.  But after I tried it on, I went back and took in the side seams again about an inch on each side to get the fit that I wanted.  So I probably didn’t need to be as concerned as I was.  But I did take and scoop about an inch out of the armsythe.  Because of that change, I had narrower arm facings but that didn’t hurt anything.  I took about 5 inches off the bottom of the dress and put a 2.25 inch hem in it too. 

The dress still isn’t a 100% done.  It had a detachable vestee.  So all but the snaps and tacking the neckline facing is completed.  Saturday night’s battle with the snaps didn’t go too well.  The snaps won and I gave up.  This upcoming weekend, I am going to take the dress out to my parents house so my dad can battle with the snaps.  Next time I may consider doing small buttons.  Buttons on the neckline facing and the holes on the vestee should work.  It would have to be a low profile button so that it didn’t show when the vestee is removed.

I adore this dress.  I can’t wait to get an event where I can wear it to (when is the spring murder mystery weekend at the Elms hotel).  Maybe I should just cause a scandalous stir and wear it to work.  At my work, if one dresses up too much, the person gets asked where she (or he) has an interview at.  I get to go business casual every day jeans, a nice top, and a cute shoe (for me). 

Looking at the envelope and the pattern pieces, I would be really interested in trying this dress out as a top.  It would be a really cute top for work with a cardigan (I adore cardigans it is probably an illness).  I actually had to tape back together the front and back pattern pieces so I wonder if the original owner did use it as a top (or if it was just because they wanted to use a different skirts a full skirt option could be really cute).  I could possibly try to make interchangeable vestee pieces for more versatility.

Tie Collar Blouse (Burda Style 10/2010 pattern 118)

Burda 10/2010 118

This is the first Burda Style pattern that I have ever tried to do.  The pattern pages in the magazine put me off of trying them out last year.  But the post on Pattern Review message boards really helped make sense of the craziness on the page.

One thing to remember- add your seam allowances!  I forgot to add that to the tracing paper pattern piece for the front, but at least I realized it before cutting.  At least I was able to add something on during that for the front piece.  I did remember to add the seam allowance to the back pattern piece I traced before cutting out my paper pattern.  50% probably isn’t bad for first try with the Burda Style magazine.

The pattern goes together pretty easily.  There are no darts in it.  I used a 36 for the bust area and graded out to a 40 for the hips.  I don’t seem to have as much blousyness as mentioned by others on pattern review website.  But I do have a gaping problem at the keyhole- but at least the tie does sort of cover that up.  I also used a rayon challis as my fabric choice so that may have something to do with that but I am not sure.  I wanted a nice easy neutral summer sleeveless blouse which could be worn to work with a cardigan.  I may have to go change out the button to a larger one that has more substance.  My button sort of looks out of place.

I didn’t want a thick tie so may tie pieces are about 6 inches wide total (so 3 inch folded over).  I didn’t interface the tie at all- I picked the rayon challis for its light flowyness so I wanted the tie to be similar.  The length of the tie does weight it down a bit.

I think the pattern is a keeper.  However before making another one I have 2 more tie collar blouse patterns to try out Simplicity 2154 and Colette Patterns Jasmine.

Vogue 8728- circa 1946

Vogue 8727- Vintage Vogue from 1946

It looks like I am advancing in sewing skill level (maybe)?  Vogue rates 8728 at an average and I didn’t have too much difficulties with it. The seam finishes may not be the best.  They are nice but I probably should have used flat felled or something else.  I had to redo the zipper.  I tried using the sewing machine to put it in and it looks horrible.  I am definitely better at hand picking zippers.  Tailor tacking is getting better.

Vogue 8728

If I make it again, I really need to add an extra inch or so to the waist.  I used half inch seams for the sides.  My goodness that puppy is tight.  I cut a size 14 all over.  It worked well in the bust and hips- not the waist.  Adding extra to the waist may cause one to lose some of the gathers in the bust and skirt.  For the skirt that is alright.  I am not so sure about the bust area losing gathers.  Since I am petite, I had to take about 4 inches off the hem of the skirt.  I used a 3 inch hem instead of a 2 inch hem so that I would have a knee length dress.

I used a rayon/ poly blend that had a linen look to it.  The texture doesn’t take away from the pattern.  It is the same type of fabric I had used for my 1964 Simplicity 5267 except that it is in more of a peachy coral color.  I am not exactly in love with the dress but I do like it.

Waverly Weekender bag: Butterick 5581

The bag pattern was very pocket deprived originally. I drafted a release pleat pocket for the sides. These should be good for small items like makeup, a pair of summer sandals or in my case notebook and pen for murder mystery weekends. Then for the front, I did rectangle for three pockets. I monogrammed the center of the rectangle with the Singer Deluxe Monogrammer I got for my birthday (early). The outer two pockets have button closure flaps (using the Professional buttonholer). They would be good for cell phone, sunglasses, or other small items.

As for the lining, it too received a personal touch. The first time, I pulled out the Singer Deluxe Monogrammer to put a couple of flowers in the corner. A reminder before using any attachment, check to make sure that there is enough thread in the bobbin. I ran out of thread right in the middle of the first flower. After a couple of lack luster flowers, I changed my machine over to the Singer monogrammer (the one that makes 3/8th inch letters) but forgot to put in the throat plate. The first letter turned out horribly. I realized the next morning why. So the other lesson I learned was to always have the manual out on the sewing table. So the pocket was re-cut from the lining fabric.

For a neatly finished zipper, it was hand sewn into the top of the bag. To get more cushy handles, I used felt (which I had at home) instead of sew in interfacing. Anyways, I ran out of sew in interfacing. The felt gives a nice weight to the strap. Instead of a cardboard insert for the bottom, I opted to use a rectangle of plastic canvas. Then I did a couple of stitches through it to hole the bottom into place. I picked two coordinating remnants from the home décor section of Hancock fabrics.

I picked up more fabric than suggested on the pattern envelope because I knew I wanted to add some pockets to the bag. I just wasn’t certain if I wanted to use the lining fabric or the outer fabric for the pockets. So all total after picking up thread, zipper and interfacing the total cost was about $20. Fairly close to the price I saw on just plain old ordinary travel bags at a big box store. The couple extra dollars for my bag was well worth it for all the individual style I got in my bag.

Crystal Wrap Around

I found this book, “Creating Crystal Jewelry with Swarovski: 65 Sparkling Designs with Crystal Beads”, at the used bookstore.  The author is Laura McCabe, I have seen several of her pattern contributions to Beadwork magazine.  From knowing that I had a fairly high expectation of the projects in this book.

I made the crystal wrap around bracelet.  It is definitely a statement jewelry piece.  (And apparently very on trend, granted I didn’t know wrap bracelets were until I saw them show up everywhere after I brought the crystals for my bracelet.)  But going off the pictures in the book, all the pieces in the book are statement pieces.  This bracelet more than exceeds my expectations.  The instructions are pretty decent but I wouldn’t say this is a beginners project at all.  One needs to be at least fairly comfortable with peyote stitch or at least have bezel set a crystal before would really help.  There isn’t too many pictures to follow.  The final products picture in the book is great looking, but it doesn’t really show the pattern of the 15 color A and 12 color B.  My suggestion is to layout your color pattern beforehand and buy your beads and crystals by what you want.

Since these were going to be the smallest ravolis I have made so far, I decided to use the 12mm option instead of the 10mm one.  There are twenty- seven beaded bezel set rivolis in this bracelet.  I don’t think anyone would want less than the twenty seven.  After looking at it on my wrist, I think I could have used at least one more crystal.  It wraps around my wrist three times and I have about a 7 inch wrist.  Anyone with a larger wrist should expect to use more than twenty-seven to achieve the wrap around look one desires.

To set my crystals, thirty-two beads seemed to be the best fit.  The chart given inside the book recommended thirty beads.  I am not sure if the difference is because of I used a different style of rivoli by accident, tension, or even changes in how the beads were made.  I didn’t add all the embellishment that was in the pattern.  I used padparadscha and light rose as my color combination- two of my favorite colors.  Setting each stone in bead of its respective color, I had very bright and rich colors.  Adding the beaded picot to the edges of the ravoli would probably been too distracting.  I did add the picots to the pale copper rivoli connections.

Singer Touch and Sew 775

I have been horrible at keeping this blog up.  Right now, I am still working on several different projects (one beading and 2 sewing) and I don’t have anything prepped for a post one previous creations either.  So I guess it comes down to posting about my early birthday present.

Singer Touch and Sew 775

 During the fall, my dad and aunt were cleaning the basement of my grandmother’s house and came across items for the sewing machine.  My dad brought me out the bundle of treasures for the sewing machine- since I was given the machine.  I was most excited at the time about getting the original manual for the Singer Touch & Sew 775.  The original manual is much better than that photocopy of the manual I got from Singer.  But also in the bag was a Singer walking foot and the Singer Professional Buttonholer.

 I haven’t played with the walking foot much yet.  I have tried out the Professional Buttonholer after I had cleaned and oiled it of course.  I couldn’t believe how super easy it was to use.  It was then that I realized how great attachments for my 1970’s Singer could be.  I even got adventurous enough to try out the cams that came with the machine that I never have used (that absolutely adorable ducky cam). 

Recently, I got to practice using the decorative stitches and use the Professional Buttonholer on a banner for co-workers.  D-league softball (bottom of the barrel- can’t get any worse than) champions of a city league that doesn’t even allow a homerun need a banner to honor their first championship mostly for pride and to rub it in to the other co-workers’ team.  I used the star cam for the border (apparently guys don’t like ducks).  One of the players honestly thought I hand sewed the laces on the  softballs I put on the banner. 

Banner

 I started looking for other attachments for this sewing machine.  Luckily it was a slant shank machine, attachments for it are much easier to find on Etsy and Ebay than the low shank attachments.  I found a Singer Deluxe Monogrammer with eight different letter cams.  My parents graciously bought it for me for my birthday and let me have it about 2 months early!  Now I am trying to resist the urge of picking up a cardigan at a store just so I can monogram it.

Royal Engagement Ring:

Most people would go out and purchase a replica of Kate’s engagement ring (Diana’s ring originally), but me, I want to make it myself.  Not even Kate or Diana could say that they made it themselves, but the real ring is probably more stunning than my crystal beaded version.  So this is a free pattern I found on “Bead & Button” website (instruction link at bottom of post) and excitement set in.

This is probably a go to pattern if you want to make a crystal ring.  I have made this ring twice a round version first then the oval version.  The oval because I haven’t been able to easily find the round 18 mm Montana blue rivoli again.  So if I make this up as a gift later, I wanted a practice one to see how hard the oval version is.

The crystals required for this project is the hardest part to find.  The little 2 mm round crystals were purchased on-line.  I was extremely fortunate on the circle Montana blue crystal to find the 18 mm rivoli at an actual store.  The oval Montana crystal was purchased on-line at a different place.  I substituted plain seeds in for the charlottes.  The size 15 beads are so small that it doesn’t show easily that a different bead was used.

I made the round version last year, so I don’t remember all those construction details.  I remember being impressed with it even when I wasn’t finished (it had been the most complicated looking item I had made to that point) and that I was a little apprehensive about not having pictures in the instructions to follow along.

The oval shape took just over an hour to bead, set the crystal, and embellish.  Then probably another 20 minutes for the ring band.  So after completing it once, it does get alot easier to make again even in a different shape.

 

Here is the link to the instructions:
http://cs.jewelrymakingmagazines.com/BAJCS/blogs/beadandbutton/archive/2011/04/18/royal-engagement-ring-tribute.aspx
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Marilyn’s “Niagara” Wrap-skirt

An absolutely intriguing movie is Niagara (1953) with Marilyn Monroe and Joseph Cotton. It is a suspense thriller with Niagara Falls setting a dramatic backdrop.  One of the outfits that caught my attention was the wrap skirt and swing jacket that Rose (Monroe’s character) wears to the bus station to get tickets to Chicago.  That outfit always looks so lovely and elegant.

So after looking at the pattern (McCall’s 5840) closer and watching the movie many times, this skirt was still stuck in my imagination.  While looking at the local fabric store one night, I came across this wool blend at ½ off.  The grey is such a similar color as the skirt in the movie that I knew it was destined to be my version of the wrap skirt in Niagara.

After finishing the wrap-around skirt and the 1960’s straight-line dress for the Vintage contest for pattern review, I decided since I still had a week left before the contest deadline, I would go ahead and work on this pattern for the Vintage contest also.  It looks fairly simple right with 6 darts, 4 seams, waistband and such?

I had to take about 6 inches off the bottom of the hem.  Also, I hemmed it another 4 inches.  I added about 4 inches to the waist since the original pattern was too small.   The closure is 4 snaps; 2 snaps in the waistband and 2 snaps in the front side.  I think I may end up going back and adding an additional snap in the waistband.

A wrap skirt just seems to scream that it requires French seam (or am I the only one who thinks that).  So after serging the outside edges of the pieces, I went ahead and started to assemble the back of the skirt with French seams at my parents’ house.  That means I was using a sewing machine (1970’s Singer Stylist 417) I wasn’t comfortable with yet.  (I had picked it up over the summer at a garage sale for $45 with the table so I had a machine at my parents. In January it went to the sewing machine doctor to get fixed since it hadn’t been used too much and needed some TLC.)  So the French seams really lend to the polish look of the garment.

The pattern envelope didn’t look as A-line as the skirt came out.  I was wanting more of a pencil look to replicate the skirt in “Niagara”, but the A-line looks fine.  I still have a nice classic style of skirt.

Crystal and Picot Necklace

I brought the book “Beaded Allure” by Kelly Wiese at a local craft store last fall.  After flipping through, I was a little worried about it; it seemed there were very few single star difficulty projects.  I originally learned seed bead weaving back in 1998 when I took a class at a local bead store.  The class project was a beaded amulet bag using the even count tubular peyote stitch.  So I more comfortable taking on harder challenging projects with even count peyote stitches than with other different stitch types.

Crystal & Picot Necklace from "Beaded Allure"

I have actually made the “Crystal and Picot Necklace” pattern twice.  The first one is the pink and light copper.  The second one is the purple and light copper which my mom asked me to make for my aunt.  The instructions for the pattern are very well written and have pictures of each step.  It is easy to compare what you did with what you were suppose to do.  The hardest part I encountered was the first couple rounds on the focal center bead.  But I think that was because I used a 14mm bead instead of the 12mm bead recommended by the pattern.  It just took a little time and patience to get the 2^nd round on my 14mm bead to look similar to the 2^nd round on the 12mm bead in the pattern.

The chain in the pattern is just a bunch of looping circles and looks delicate.  But it isn’t as delicate as it looks.  On both necklaces, I had to remove parts of the chain so I could redo the clasp.  I couldn’t just pull on any section and get two of the “links” apart.  I had to remove each link separately.  I used about 17 to 20 cylinder beads for the loop on the clasp to get it around my 8mm rondelle crystal and 3 cylinder picot.

The chain design would be fairly versatile.  I can easily picture using it on a beaded glass ornament connecting beaded raviolis.

Simplicity 5267- 1963 dress

I know that the winner of the Pattern Review Vintage Contest is decided by votes on entries, so multiple entries don’t help you win.  However, there are so many wonderful seamstresses over there that I think is it pretty safe to say that any additional entries I put in won’t make too much difference.  I joined the contest mostly for the fun of sewing and that vintage patterns are good opportunities to practice sizing patterns to fit.  So it is valuable skill building.

 

 

 This is another cute pattern from the 1960’s era.  It is Simplicity 5267 (from 1963) and is a simple straight sheath dress with a detachable collar and tie belt.  I made view number 3, the sleeveless dress with just a belt.  But I didn’t make the tie belt because I think I would prefer a buckle style belt instead of a tie.  I may do the detachable collar later just for a little variety with the dress (the collar would probably look really cute with a cardigan).

 

This was another one of the patterns I found at an antique mall.  Like the wrap-around skirt, this pattern wasn’t the correct size.  So I added an additional 4 inches so that the dress would fit.  Because of the additional inches added in width, I had to reshape the neckline and the armsythe (narrow the shoulders).  I shortened the end of the dress 6 inches and used a 3 inch hem.  I used my serger to finish the inside seams.  I like the facings and think I will probably go back and tack the facings on the inside so they don’t flip out.

 

Wrap Around Skirt

Sewing background- I would be classified as an advance beginner sewer.  I am at the point where a good portion of the items I make turn out fairly decent.  Seams are fairly straight, and finishing seams is getting much better.  I am still terrified to try to make a buttonhole though.

So my first entry in the Pattern Review Vintage Contest is a wrap- around skirt from Simplicity 5385.  The pattern is dated 1964.  I found it at an antique mall.

Wrap Around Skirt- Simplicity 5385 (1964)

It is a 4 piece pattern so it is fairly simple with not a lot of pieces.  Just a pocket, pocket facing, tie and skirt.  Only one main seam to sew.  So my main challenge with it was to size the pattern up so that it would fit me.  The pattern was a vintage size 16.  The waist needed an extra 4 inches.   So I added an inch at the center seam and an inch to each edge of the skirt piece.  I didn’t move the darts at all.  The other alternation I made was to shorten the pattern a couple inches so the skirt was knee length.

The side challenge is to make sure I get a skirt that is still current looking and usable for everyday while using an older pattern.  This was easy because I chose to make the skirt up in a sandy tan color linen look blend of rayon and poly.

The instructions are in unit construction format and are very good.  They break the whole down to reasonable parts and there was a lot more detail than I expected.  A previous 1960’s pattern I used before had 3 instructions for a pair of pants and pretty much assume the sewer knew about construction of garments.

I used a French seam for the center front seam for a clean look on the inside.  The pocket facing easier than expected and so it didn’t flip out of the pocket,  I went ahead and edge stitched it down.

The skirt is fastened by a couple of snaps in the back.  Instead of just sewing a small square to the back of the outer layer to hide the closures, I lengthened the square into a facing across the entire waist of the skirt, a minor detail change.  It looks nicer because the stitches go across the entire width instead of just stitched squares ( a little out of place).