This pattern should have been my entry for the “Inspired by the Movies” contest at Pattern Review. But instead I will just join A Stitching Oddessy’s Vintage Pattern Pledge. So it is official, I, Char at Sewbeading, promise to make at least 5 items from vintage patterns in 2014. Here is entry one for the Vintage Pattern Pledge.
I have more friends getting married next spring. I swear I am going to wear this dress to both weddings. One is in Colorado and the other is in Kansas. No one except for my blog readers, the bride of the second wedding, and maybe the groom from the first wedding (if he remembers I mentioned it) will know. A must for this new dress was that it needed to have that late 1950’s/ early 1960’s feel and full skirt. I decided that a special occasion dress should be made out of silk. In fact the color I picked was called cranberry zinger.
My pattern was a size 36 bust. I made a cotton muslin to check the pattern size. My first inclination was that the waist is going to be too small. After making the muslin, I decided it needed at least a couple of inches in the waist and needed to be lengthened an inch also. I tried a new pattern alteration the seam hinge method. I had seen this sort of explained at the sewing expo in November. I lengthened the bodice 1 ¼ inches. I then added my width adjustments. Afterwards the first adjustments seem to be fine; it looks like a better fit. But with the fashion fabric being silk, I went ahead and made a bodice muslin. The muslin seemed to be fine. After the navy dress, I went back and took a half an inch out of length on my bodice pieces. Even though the muslin looked fine, the skirt of the dress did weigh down the bodice enough that it was too long.
Since I made the dress out of silk, I thought the dress should be lined. On my previous silk dress (Vogue 8789), the waist was a little chunky with the dress seam and the lining seam. I decided to line the bodice of the dress only to hopefully avoid this problem. The silk duiponi feels like it should be alright without a lining in the skirt. Otherwise, if not, I have my half slip (Simplicity 4218) from the stretch silk charmeuse which was recently completed.
I used the front and back neck facings but not the armhole facings. Since I did this, I was able to baste my lining to my fashion fabric then sew on my facings and collar. I just used the sewing machine and tacked down the facings instead of hand sewing them like I normally do. It worked out well.
I was disappointed with the fullness of the navy dress skirt. I envisioned something more which is what the pattern envelope made me believe. So I did change that a little on the cranberry silk one. I kept with the two panels but I cut the whole width of my fabric instead. I probably added about 20 more inches of fullness to the skirt. I like this better.
One interesting item to note, during this project I learned that Lala loves the feeling of silk under his bottom. I repeatedly had to move him off my fabric as I was working with it. But the funny thing is that one night there was the rose knit fabric on the floor next to the cutting mat and Lala never put a paw on that. But he sat on the silk I was gathering for the skirt instead.
Next major project will be my entry into Pattern Review’s vintage contest. I have Butterick 3513, a blouse from mid-1960’s with a scallop collar in orchid handkerchief linen.
A side note, I have joined Bloglovin for anyone who wants to follow me on that.