So this post will be covering at least five different Coco dresses from Tilly and the Buttons.
In July 2014, my mom asked if I would be able to make a dress. So after looking though the patterns in the stash already, I decided to order Tilly’s Coco dress. It sounded like what she wanted a knit dress with sleeves.
The first Coco was sewn up in August for me. I figured I should at least be acquainted with the pattern before making it for my mom. For the dress, I picked out a rayon jersey. The pattern recommends more stable knits like a interlock knit. But from what I saw online, it looks like several have used thinner knits and been happy with the result. For my Coco dress, I graded between size 4 and size 5. The sleeves are a little long; they are supposed to be ¾ length. I probably should have taken an inch out in the length. Instead of the stay tape at the shoulders, I used the clear elastic I had at home. Since I was using a thinner knit than recommended, I didn’t want to cause too much stretch in the knit. I used quarter-inch seam allowance on the side seams. That way it just skims over me. At the end, I decided to take two inches off the bottom. It was a little long being at the middle of my knees when not hemmed. After that I used a 1 inch hem to get it to look like the same spot as the pictures.
I thought I had everything lined up well. But I didn’t. One side seam the stripes match perfectly; the other not so much. This was following the pattern’s cutting layout. I went through and very carefully lined up the selvage sides and pinned the stripe together. Then I laid the fabric down carefully and did keep the bunny off while I was cutting (which is very hard to do). I think the next time I use a stripe for this dress, I may go ahead and cut it out single layers.
I was able to show my mom the dress over Labor day weekend. It was exactly what she was wanting in a dress. So we went by the fabric shop and picked up some ITY fabric to make her a top with the pattern.
Next Coco was the top for my mom. I choose a size 7 for her. I also knew I was going to need a full bust adjustment. This is a knit pattern and I can’t remember if I have seen full bust adjustments done on knit. I drew a line of where I was going to do the “simple” full bust adjustment, then cut along it and spread 2 inches. This did add some in the waist and hip area too, but it wasn’t so bad that I had to go back and fix it. I cut my fabric then basted it all together for my mom to try on. She like the fit but preferred using quarter-inch on the side seams instead of the 5/8 inch seam.
Coco 3 was a dress for my mom from a lavender rayon jersey. I couldn’t get the stripes to line up because the pattern on the fabric was crooked.
I actually don’t have pictures of the ones I made for my mom.
Now we are up to Coco 4. I made Coco 4 in December right before Christmas. I decided to go with sleeveless so I could wear it with a cardigan and leggings in the winter and still be able to wear it in the summer. I got the floral knit at the KC Pinhead Christmas party. I used the size 4/5 combo again this time but I went ahead and took off a little length before cutting. I also added a quarter-inch on the neckline at the shoulders. I don’t know if that was the cause of the neckline gaping, if the fabric stretched while sewing since I forgot to stay stitch, or both but I went ahead and put in a couple of pleats around the neckline to keep it from gaping.
So the last Coco was made with navy sweatshirt fleece. I used quarter-inch for the seam allowances. I added extra length to the sleeves and the hem to account for the thickness of the fabric. I still had neckline gaping even with stay stitching. I need to decide how I want to fix that. Excuse the first navy photo because I was trying to not fall over Lala.
I think the navy sweatshirt fleece will be the last Coco I make for myself. I just can’t seem to get the neckline right and I don’t know what else to do for fixing it.
I think the next knit dress for me will be the Deer and Doe Plantain baby doll tutorial.