Archive | April 2016

Albino Deer & Doe Airelle blouse

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It was time again to break out the Deer & Doe Airelle pattern again. I really probably should make this one more than once a year just because it works so perfectly into my lifestyle.

This time I used a white stretch cotton lawn for the top.  This is the first time I used a woven with stretch to make my Airelle top with.

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As always, I stuck with a sleeveless version; however, this time I used the Sewaholic tutorial (http://sewaholic.net/blue-floral-sleeveless-granville-shirt/).  I followed the recommended adjustments from the tutorial.  But I used the notch on the yoke to determine the shoulder.

I kept with the same size combination as previously used (42 at bust, 44 at waist, and 46 at hips). Just to give me a bit more ease, the side seams were sewn at 3/8th inch instead of the 5/8th inch.

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The armhole is finished with hand cut bias tape facing. Before putting in the bias tape, I had tried on the top and the arm area seems to be fitting well.  I went ahead with an “exposed” bias tape and sew it in with quarter-inch seam allowance.  The tape was folded up then the interior was folded to touch the bodice before being pinned back and sewn into place.

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A Weekend of T-shirts

So I dedicated the weekend of book club to sewing. I spent the week before tracing out pattern and altering if necessary.  I still haven’t figured out how to wash “washable” marker off of my hands.  After about 3 hand washings of soap and water and a shower the next morning; there was still faint traces of the marker on my hands.

Friday, I eagerly started to cut out the fabric for all patterns. Out of the 6 different items planned, only three were cut out on Friday: Pattern Review Winter street dress, the Sewaholic Renfrew, and the SBCC Tonic Tee 2.  It took two and half hours to get those three cut so I was really ready by then to switch over to starting to sew instead of cutting.  The rest of Friday and Saturday morning, I worked on the Pattern Review Winter Street.  Let’s save the Pattern Review Winter Street dress for another post.

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Up first is the Sewaholic Renfrew t-shirt. I actually purchase this as a Craftsy kit.  Several of the KC Pinheads sewing group absolutely adore the Craftsy kits they had purchased.  The fabric included in my Renfrew kit is 2 yards of jersey knit (92% rayon and 8% spandex) which is 58 inches wide.

I chose to use a straight size 14 for my top. With summer coming, I decided to go with view B (the short-sleeved, v neck).  Since I was using a thin stripes, I followed advice from Lucky Lucille and traced out the front and the back twice.  I knew there would be no way that I would be able to pin all those thin stripes together for cutting on the fold.  It was one of those cautious carefully planned cutting out, like the bunny could not be located on the same side of the living room as the fabric lest he messes up the stripe matching.

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Saturday afternoon, with the Supersizers Go streaming on Hulu, I started to put together my Renfrew t-shirt. Everything went together fairly easily.  The only piece I had troubles on was the neckband but that was mostly me trying to visualize what was happening there.  About 2 ½ hours later I had a finished t-shirt.

On to the SBCC Tonic Tee 2. My favorite part about the Tonic Tee 2 is the length.  That was the sole reason I picked it over the original Tonic Tee by SBCC.  The Tonic Tee 2 has a length of 26 inches from the highest point of shoulder to hem.  Otherwise, the Tonic Tee is just 24 inches. Two inches are fairly significant and I really like my t-shirts on the longer side.

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I made a size Large. Just like when I picked the size for the Sewaholic Renfrew, I laid the Maria Denmark Kirsten Kimono Tee pattern piece over the pattern to be made.  As a reference, the fabric used for the SBCC Tonic Tee 2 is a 95% rayon/ 5% lycra jersey knit from Fabric-mart.

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My Tonic Tee 2 fits well. But my only quibble with the pattern is the neckband piece is sort of thin; which seems to be more of an issue of visual balance on the neckline.  But even though I think the neckband piece is too thin, I don’t think I will make changes to it.  As I am wearing the t-shirt, the neckline of the top lays well against my skin.  A well laying neck line or a thicker neckband is a hard decision; but as I am typing this, a well laying neckline is winning out.

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Pattern instructions has you insert the neckband flat before closing up the second shoulder seam. This is done so that it is easier to insert the neckline band.  When I make this t-shirt again, I will probably insert the neckband in the round as I feel I get a cleaner finish with it.

I started my Tonic Tee 2 when I put my dinner in the oven. Then there was an hour break for dinner.  Afterwards, another hour and half work until I had a finished t-shirt.  It was completed even before the Sporting KC game started.

The last t-shirt of the weekend was completely unplanned. While the game was on, I decided I wanted to cut out a second Renfrew top out of the last of the peacock-blue rayon/ lycra jersey.  I used the same as above with no pattern alterations.  I stitched it up on Sunday afternoon.

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