Tag Archive | Butterick

Panty party


Back to school time always seems to be the time when I think about buying new underwear even though I have been out of college for 11 years.  This time I decided to skip the heartache of searching at the store and make my own underwear.  For my “panty party”, I decided to use Simplicity 8229, Simplicity 8228, Simplicity 8436 and Butterick 6031.


When I decided that I was going to have my own “panty party”, I went ahead and purchased a pack of men’s white t-shirts to use for the crotch lining on all patterns chosen.  I figured this would be the easiest solution without me having to hunt for appropriate fabric on the internet or in store.  Anyways, I was having a flare up of endometriosis symptoms so less work was best at the time.

I also went ahead and picked up a coral bamboo knit from Emerald Erin to try out in all 4 patterns.

Simplicity 8229

Previous Simplicity 8229

Let’s start with Simplicity 8229.  Back before my sewing machine went in for repair in March or April, I did make a couple of pairs of Simplicity 8229.  At the time I never really thought about blogging about them but I did put them in for Emerald Erin’s panty party.  For sizing, I cut out a small but used the elastic size for medium (by mistake but it works).  I used a pair of high-waisted underwear that I got from Marshalls before and like to determine the size.  They were very stretchy so I knew as long as I used ITY, I should be fine on fit.  The bamboo worked well in the small also.  I think I may go back and reduce the rise by half-inch.

Next was Simplicity 8228.

Simplicity 8228

The first pair was from black stretch lace that I got from a lace grab bag and the ITY fabric I used for a skirt on a dress for my mom.  As I was cutting it out, I decided to add a quarter-inch to the front of the crotch lining.  I also used the hem already in the shirt to make the hem on the lining.  Since the lace gets applied on top, I basted the center front and back with the quarter-inch seam allowance so I had an easier time lining the lace side pieces up.

I used the size small again and with the medium elastic.

I didn’t want all high waist panties, so I decided to branch out to include Simplicity 8436.  This pair is so different from anything I had in my simple boring underwear drawer.  Since it was another Madelynne for Simplicity pattern, I traced out a small also.  Honestly, I don’t think I will ever wear this.  The front of the underwear is alright.  However, the back does not have as much coverage.

Simplicity 8436

Butterick 6031 (from Gertie) was the last pair I decided to try out.  For this one I decided to go with the size 14.  The side seams are 5/8 inch.  But the elastic seam allowance is the 1/4 inch.   I really don’t care much for the mixed seam allowance.  I wish the underwear would have been a consistent quarter-inch.   Otherwise, the underwear went together easily.  As the lace elastic I used had a straight side, I basted along the edge and then turned and zig-zag stitched.

Butterick 6031



Melody’s Sunday Outfit- Butterick 6265

Melody got her first hand-made outfit!  Melody got a lined jacket and a dress from Butterick 6265.  It is a reprint from 1957.  I did a quick internet check to see if the style was still around in 1964 girls sewing patterns.  I was able to find some examples so I went ahead with my plan.

I have half a yard of this lime green daisy print quilting cotton that would work well for the skirt.  The pattern shows the jacket and the skirt matching, however, my print was just too big for the jacket to look as nice.  So for the jacket, I decided on a coordinating solid (probably a little more of a contemporary look since it isn’t matching).

Lets start first with the lined dress.  I think the main reason the bodice is lined is for a clean finish at the neck line.  The instructions have you sew the neckline and end of sleeves of the lining and outer fabric together.  Side seams I finished off with my serger.  Skirt and petticoat are sewn on after the side seams are finished.

I did cheat on the netting petticoat.  I bought one of the 6 inch wide rolls of tulle and just used that.  I didn’t follow the pattern piece but just took a length off the roll and baste stitched it.  Then I matched it up to the skirt piece; gathering as needed.  The skirt was basted and gathered to fit the bodice.  To be honest, with the amount of gathers in the skirt, one probably doesn’t need the netting petticoat that is included in the pattern if you use a quilting cotton.


On to the jacket, the lined jacket was actually easier than I anticipated and I had it completed before dinner the day I cut it out.  It is just 2 pattern pieces the jacket front and jacket back.  In the end, I decided to construct all the outer blue fabric together as one time.  Then after a break, I cut out the lining and put it together.  The lining and outer fashion fabric are sewn together on the outside edge, then slipped through the opening you leave at the bottom.  That opening is hand sewn closed.  So after a good press, it was on to attaching the sleeve lining to the outer fabric.  It was not able to be machine sewn so it was hand sewn also.  Lastly, I decided to just sew in a snap so the jacket can close but still have the simple front.

To be honest, I think this jacket would look so cute with jeans and a t-shirt also.

Recreating Molly’s Christmas Dress- Butterick 6149

Pattern Doll Clothing 2016



I guess we could say my sewing skills have came a long way.  Now I am trying my best to “hack” Molly’s Christmas dress from Butterick 6149.  I don’t usually try to draft out entire pattern pieces.  Mainly, I just make little modifications like lengthening a t-shirt pattern to a dress sort of thing.

I started with Butterick 6149 because I would not need to make changes to the bodice.  I used view B for my dress especially since it was short sleeved.  I tried changing a gathered skirt to the A-line skirt to match the original outfit.  It was close but I ended up “fixing” the front by trimming length off it.


Looking at the compare pictures at the bottom of the post, my skirt is close to the original but slightly off.  I am not sure what I did wrong but I am at least close.  Anyways, it may just be fabric choice.


The big question I have is where did American Girl get the velvet to make Molly’s dress.  I picked my fabric up from Fabric mart.  It was definitely too thick but I used it anyways as I really wanted to re-create Molly’s dress for Doll Clothing week.  My seams are bulky.  I didn’t line the sleeves because of bulk.  Also, I didn’t add the lace to the sleeves to avoid more bulk.


My other fabric issue was the velvet had a little bit of stretch while the lining was white quilting cotton which didn’t.  So there was some fighting between the lining and the velvet but in the end, the pieces lined up enough that everything worked out.  Cutting the velvet was a bit tricky too.  I feel like it slide out from under my rotary cutter.  Next time, I will try pinning and using scissors to see if that helps tame the velvet.


All I can say is those 1950’s mothers must have really loved their daughters if they were setting the sleeves of a doll dress in the round.  When I seen that in the instructions, it was so not happening.  Especially after realizing the lining cotton and velvet were not getting along and that the seams will be bulky anyways.  I put the sleeves in flat and it turned out alright.

American Girl sold the dress on the left below for $24.  I was able to recreate it for around $6.  I know my final result is a close but not quite there (I ended up ordering one off of Ebay to have a closer look than I can get in pictures.  From what I can tell, it looks like I need to drop the waist line of the dress, lengthen the sleeves, add extra buttons (which I can still do as there are more at home), and change the skirt.  At first, I honestly thought it was A-line.  Hopefully the closer look will help figure it out.


Winter Sewing Plans 2014


I forgot to get pictures of the Coco items I made my mom. So that will have to wait until next weekend.  Also planned for next weekend is photos for Toby’s Halloween costume.  I couldn’t get them on Sunday because Toby’s costume partner (Lala) was indisposed with a case of red lipstick stains (kisses from his grandma).   And I haven’t quite finished Butterick 5716 jacket.  So while we are waiting on the pictures of my projects, I decided to post more of a winter sewing plan mainly to keep me motivated.

My two big projects will be Colette pattern’s Lady Grey coat and Butterick 6108 jacket.  Actually Lady Grey coat and the Butterick jacket were not even items I was thinking about in the middle of October.  But Deepika posted about the coat on Pattern Review and offered to do a sew-along with me when I mentioned I had always loved the look of the Lady Grey coat but felt it was too advanced for me.  The first fabric I ordered online was too lightweight for the pattern.  That is where the Butterick pattern comes in.  I don’t want to waste lovely wool.  Yes that Butterick pattern is the 1918 pattern that was re-released.  Before everyone in the sewing blog world decides to check me into an insane asylum, I will admit that the entire outfit isn’t one you can put in your everyday wardrobe, unless you want to be Lady Mary for Halloween.  But I think that view B jacket would look so cute with skinny jeans, a simple t-shirt top, and either boots or ballet flats for a great autumn/ spring outfit.

So at my sister’s engagement party, several people were admired the top I made my mom and the chambray dress I made myself.  So with this new motivation, I really want to expand my sewing skills.  For both of these items, I would like to follow Gertie’s Lady Grey sew-along to learn more about tailoring.  These will probably be slow going projects that take some time to make.

The idea of just slow projects isn’t too appealing. So I decided to go ahead and cut a couple other projects out also so I can go back and forth between the tailoring project and faster items.  The top pattern contenders are Vogue 1247’s skirt, McCall’s 5884 tie collar blouse, an apron, a doll slip from Lee & Pearl’s 1943, and Heritage Doll Fashion’s Samantha’s ice cream dress.  I had traced out the top for Vogue 1247 but am now starting to doubt whether to make it or not.  I am not sure I like the idea of a “triangle” top which is narrower on the hips.  I would like another top but need to decide between Kate & Rose’s Zsalya top or Vogue 1367.  I would barely be able to squeak either pattern out of the 2 yards of silk/ cotton voile I have at home.

Anyone else have these items planned on their winter sewing list?

In the mean time please enjoy Lala’s other costume.  My sister got it for him from Petco but I had to add extra Velcro to make it work.  The package said it fit most small animals with a picture of a guinea pig wearing it.  Rabbits are not shaped like guinea pigs at all.


Scalloped Cutie- Butterick 3513

It is time for the vintage pattern contest at Pattern Review. This time I was going to participate in a contest that I wanted to.

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I am always needing to make more separates so I decided to make Butterick 3513 from the mid-1960’s. It was between this or a similar Vogue 7403 from mid-1960s too (probably 1967). I made the sleeveless scallop collar in view C since I love to pair items with a cardigan for work. The handkerchief linen is see-through (maybe not the best for a unlined blouse). I will have to wear a camisole under this for sure. Otherwise, any future tops from this fabric will have to be lined.

This blouse pattern was pretty much straight up and down at 40 inch circumference. From that I figured I should be ok in the bust area, fine at the waist and lacking width in the hip area. I did shorten the blouse by an inch in length. I used the seam hinge pattern alteration method again. This time I added 4 inches to the bottom at the hips and tapered back up to nothing at the arm.

Before I even cut the fabric out, I was concerned that the linen would fray a lot. So, all edges were run through the serger machine. For some unknown reason, my pinking shears went missing. I can’t find them anywhere that I have thought I could put them. They will probably show up after I go and get a new pair. It would have been nice to have them for trimming the neckline area.

I basted the left side together and tried it on hoping that I would not need to install a zipper. But after trying it on, I realized I do need the zipper. Also from the first try-on session, I realized the arm is too tight and I felt like I was falling out of the top in the front. The dickey is a must. I did not want it to be removable. I am afraid removable may mean a wardrobe malfunction.

I took about a half inch off the armhole on the top. I used bias to finish the armhole for less bulk and less to show through the linen.

Also, I hand stitched the neckline facing down.

If I make this pattern again, I will definitely not shorten the length at all. I would also adjust the arm area and possibly add some more to the bust area.

Julie and Julia

At work this year, the United way fundraiser basket theme was comedy movies.  My work area chose the movie “Julie and Julia” to center the basket around.  After I got permission (had to make certain that hand-made items would be accepted), I made a 1950’s style half apron for the basket.

This time around, I mixed two of my favorite patterns together for the finished apron.  I took the skirt and waistband from Butterick 5579.  The ties came from Simplicity 2592.  I didn’t bother with any lace or bias trim.  I used a narrow rolled hem on the skirt.  I did cut two waistbands instead of one so that I had more room for my ties.


I think I may have at least one to two more aprons to make this year.  One for another holiday party and possibly one for my sister.  I am not sure yet if she would like to have an apron.

Pippa’s Trip Down the Nile- Butterick 5710

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The couple of tops I have planned out as next had to wait. Butterick has their Hollywood inspired contest going on right now. I want to make a dress for that and to seek a bit of redemption from the last dress. I still have a nagging feeling that something is amiss with Vogue 2962. It ends on June 12th, so I know I am very late in starting. I only had 10 days to get the whole dress done (including lining). For my Hollywood inspiration, I picked out one of my favorite movies, Death on the Nile, from 1978. For those who haven’t seen it, it is based on the Agatha Christie novel by the same title. A group of strangers meet on a boat for a luxury trip down the Nile to explore ancient Egyptian ruins (watching the movie is like a mini-vacation the scenery is riveting). One person on the boat is murder and Hercules Poirot has to determine who did it.

Death on the Nile dress

The dress I picked to replicate was the one Rosalie wears during the disturbance in the saloon (trying not to give away too much details for those who haven’t seen the movie). It is a lovely peach bias cut evening dress with a cowl drape. I am using Butterick 5710, the one that is based on Pippa’s bridesmaid dress. Both evening dresses (the pattern and the movie) look absolutely stunning and classy in their full length to the floor silhouette, but I just don’t go to functions were that is appropriate. So I opted to do the short cocktail length. I can wear that at the murder mystery weekends and to work if I want to be really over-dressed.

To my surprise I am able to also submit this in the Pattern Review fabric stash contest. The fabric used is a pale peach pink wool crepe that I got from an on-line store. I have had it for about a year. The lining is white china silk that I got from a different on-line store recommended by several on pattern review. I bought that about October 2012. All total, I used 3.75 yards of fabric from my stash. Since I had wider silk lining than 45 inches, I just doubled the fashion fabric given on the envelope. It should be fairly close to what I used.

Recently, I received the Colette Pattern’s snippets email with 10 tips for bias sewing. It was a tremendous help for me with my first completely bias cut dress. I think I followed every tip provided (except maybe the first one of choose the right fabric since I already bought the fabric last year). I probably need to find smaller pattern weights than bean cans and artichoke cans. They got in the way when I was using my rotary cutter which was a dream when cutting the china silk.

I was able to find a roll of 1 ½ inch wide fusible interfacing to use on the zipper seam. I had seen several blogs that mentioned interfacing zipper seams for bias cut garments. In fact, I didn’t follow the order of the instructions. I did more of the 1960’s unit construction method. I went ahead and did all of the back first on the lining and the wool ( and put in the zipper on the wool). Then I went back and did the front like step one in the instructions.

1. Added length to the side seams about 5/8 inch to each side seam.
2. Reshape bust darts and lowered them
3. Pinched out a little on the upper front bodice
4. Pinched out extra length on waist of the back (about ½ inch)

Thank you to all the ones on Pattern Review who advised and helped me with fit. I will admit I didn’t follow the 1 inch seam advice, but that was because I just wasn’t able to sew a straight steady seam allowance of 1 inch. I need to figure what to put on my machine bed so that I am better able to reference where I should be sewing.

Most of the dress I have seen from this pattern have been more cocktail/ formal (bridal) wear. I sort of wonder if you could make this out of a cotton for a cute summer dress. Not considering the front cowl, it is pretty much a simple bias cut dress with Raglan sleeves. I think a cotton lawn should be able to drape for the front cowl. The envelope back mentions crepe, faille, and satin only.

I know a lot of people love to sew with knit fabric. I haven’t really explored sewing with knits yet. But I think this pattern would be do-able in a thin rayon knit. The only reason I say a rayon knit is because I have some dresses that I bought last year from Target in this material and it has the drape required for the front cowl. All the bias pieces would have to be cut on the grain (more likely). It probably would have to be a stable knit. I don’t think any thick knit would work. It would be an interesting experiment. I just don’t have the fabric for it right now and I don’t know if I am really interested in re-making this dress when I have a stack of other patterns I want to try.

I need to get back to more “practical” sewing like tops. Since it is Pattern Review’s fabric stash contest, I should go ahead and choose from the ruffle front blouse (Burda Style 04/2010), a 1960’s Simplicity pattern, or the peplum blouse (Burda Style 5/2010). All of those patterns I have matched with fabric I already have in my stash. I had thought about Savage Coco’s Halter top hussy pattern, but only my lining would be stash so I may wait until July for that one.

Also, I apologize for the lack of enthusiasm in the pictures.  But let’s pretend it is because I was stalking the murder from “Death on the Nile”.