Tag Archive | top

Cashmerette Dartmouth

Cashmerette Dartmouth was another top that I cut out while my sewing machine was being repaired.  But tragedy struck that top.  All pictures are from the re-make.

For this one I picked a 16 C/D at the bust and graded out to the 18 at the waist.  To be honest, I don’t think I picked the right size.  This feels a little too relaxed and oversized as I am wearing it when I stitched it at the recommended seam allowances.

I was trying to improve the fit of my top so that I would wear it more.  As I was trimming the seam allowances, I cut a huge hole in the back of the top.  It was complete un-repairable.  Luckily, I did have the next day off from work, so I put some new fabric in the washing machine and hung to dry.  Both attempts were made from Rayon/ lycra jersey.

Dartmouth was actually a fairly fast make.  I probably started cutting it out around 8 am in the morning and by 11:30 I was finished with the top.  I really did not look at the directions much on the second time.  I made the same size as previously made.  This time I used 5/8 to 3/4 inches for the side seams.  I achieved a much better fit for the top.  I have realized that I probably need to size down or remove some of the hip curve.

The only part that annoys me a bit is the front hem.  Since there is two layers of fabric in the front, my hem just seems too bulky.  Once I get the correct size picked out, I will probably go back and trace out a second front for me and short it by an inch just so that it is caught in the hem but hopefully not making the hem be too bulky.

 

There is still a couple of Cashmerette Appletons to get on the blog and a Scroop Miramar.  Besides the blog worthy, most of the other projects in the back log are t-shirts which have been covered before.

Right now, I have been sorting through patterns trying to figure out what I need most.  After the Sew Powerful Purses, my focus should shift towards lingerie, blouses and trying to make some pants.

 

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Jalie Raglan T-shirt

So flipping through blog post, it looks like I don’t sew clothes for people anymore.  But to be honest, November and December’s sewing projects were for my mom who doesn’t want her items posted to the blog.  I originally planned on working this t-shirt pattern back in the beginning of January, but I only had a plain solid color rayon knit picked out.  So it got shoved to the side so Marie Grace could get a dress instead.  I actually made the tops back in February.

I am glad that I waited, as later in January I picked up a cute floral rayon knit and a coordinating solid rose color.  This is much more inspiring.  As they are coordinating, I went ahead and made 2 opposite t-shirts.

I made a straight size Z.  This is the same size I made in the Jalie scarf collared top.  No other alterations were made.  However, I did add clear elastic in the raglan shoulder seams like I would have on a shoulder seam for normal t-shirts.

The neckline on the rose bodied top did stretch out some so I did add a tuck in the back neckline so that the neckline came in and laid against my back better.

Even though, several friends and my parents told me the neckline of the top is fine, I think the next version I make of Jalie 3245 will definitely have a thicker neckband before I start playing with the neckline a little.  It just feels a little too low for my own personal preference.

 

Jalie 2921- Scarf Collared Top

Pattern Review Weekend included a panel of independent pattern designers. At the weekend, I did purchase the famous Jalie Eleonore jeans.  But after the weekend, I went on their website and purchased a top pattern.  I had not used Jalie patterns before so I wanted something that I knew I would be able to complete before tackling jeans.

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All my measurements were a size Z. I did take a waist measurement on the pattern just to make sure there wasn’t too much negative ease at the waist.  I can’t remember what I measured out for the size Z waist line.  It was definitely not under my waist measurement otherwise, I would have graded the pattern out at the waist.  My personal preference on knit tops is zero negative ease.

Since it has been so hot lately, I decide on the sleeveless in View B.

I used a navy rayon jersey that I had in stash (which will be also used in a future t-shirt project). It worked very well for the top and gives enough drape for the tie collar. The construction was very easy.  I think I had a top in three hours at most.

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For future makes of the sleeveless, I want to raise the under arm about a half-inch maybe less. Just because I haven’t used Jalie before, I would probably use the plain size Z without any under arm alterations for a make with sleeves before settling on any alterations for the views with sleeves.

Albino Deer & Doe Airelle blouse

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It was time again to break out the Deer & Doe Airelle pattern again. I really probably should make this one more than once a year just because it works so perfectly into my lifestyle.

This time I used a white stretch cotton lawn for the top.  This is the first time I used a woven with stretch to make my Airelle top with.

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As always, I stuck with a sleeveless version; however, this time I used the Sewaholic tutorial (http://sewaholic.net/blue-floral-sleeveless-granville-shirt/).  I followed the recommended adjustments from the tutorial.  But I used the notch on the yoke to determine the shoulder.

I kept with the same size combination as previously used (42 at bust, 44 at waist, and 46 at hips). Just to give me a bit more ease, the side seams were sewn at 3/8th inch instead of the 5/8th inch.

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The armhole is finished with hand cut bias tape facing. Before putting in the bias tape, I had tried on the top and the arm area seems to be fitting well.  I went ahead with an “exposed” bias tape and sew it in with quarter-inch seam allowance.  The tape was folded up then the interior was folded to touch the bodice before being pinned back and sewn into place.

Liesl + Co Late Lunch Tunic

DSCI0080So moving on from doll clothes for a while, my focus was turned to tops for myself.  I went with the Liesl & Co. late lunch tunic that I had picked up in late November as the starter for getting me back to sewing for myself.  As mentioned earlier, this top was finished before the Liesl & Co gallery tunic.  For both patterns I used a size 12 but could have gotten away with using a 10 instead.  I may see if sewing group agrees with the thought.

I decided to try out Liesl & Co late lunch tunic. It looked like it had similar styling as the McCall’s 7094 floral blouse I made which has become a favorite.  I like the fitted shoulders then the drape looseness of McCall’s 7094.  The late lunch tunic looked like it has the semi fitted shoulder area with the looseness that I have been wanting lately.  Also, the high low hem doesn’t look too dramatic from the pictures of finished tunics I have seen.  The part that sealed the deal on it being top of the to sew pile was seeing a post on the Olive + S blog that suggested men’s shirting as a potential fabric.  I had some lovely coral pink stretch shirting at home from Maggie London so that should be comparable.

This is the first Liesl + Co pattern I have used. I have use the Lisette Simplicity patterns (Traveler and Marketplace) before.  I like that the digital pattern is printed on a grid.  That gives me more to potential line the pattern up with instead of just triangles or corner circles.  This pattern didn’t go together like the usual PDF patterns I have used.  Instead of taping every piece together by row/ letter, this pattern is put together by pieces.  The numbers are the pattern piece numbers.  So 1 goes to front yoke.  Then the letters are the only ones that get matched.  It is different but does make it a bit easier putting stuff together.

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I followed the directions listed in the pattern for the full bust alteration. I really appreciated that the pattern included this.  Instead of the half-inch suggested for C cup, I went with five-eighth inch just for some added looseness.  So just between a C and D.

Afterwards, I taped the front pieces together to check length. For me, this pattern almost came down to my knees.  I was torn on whether or not to shorten the skirt pieces by three inches or less.  I erred on the side of caution and went with two inches.  I figure if I need to, I can take the last from the hem area.  For my alteration, I placed a line at three inches and nine inches from the top of the skirt.  On either side of the two lines I put another set of lines half-inch away.  Then I folded along the original line to take an inch out of each piece (both front and back).

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After getting everything together, the length was a little long. I should have went with my initial reaction of 3 inch decrease on length.  So the final inch and quarter came off of the bottom hem of the top.  Actually after taking the pictures, I ended up taking out the hem and cutting another inch off the back hem curving it up to the front.  It seemed too long still.

For the skirt part of my Late Lunch tunic, I used French seams so that the side seams were more “invisible” since the shirt has a shaped hem.

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Any future make of this top, I would definitely need to reduce the length of the sleeves. My current make has about an inch and half hem on the sleeves (which is more than pattern recommended five eighth inch hem).  If I keep the deeper hem, I probably should shorten the sleeves about an inch. The other change to make would be to shorten the shaped hem in the back.  It is probably a little more dramatic than I like.

I still need to think on this some, but there seems to be too much fabric at the arms in the bodice. I think this is wearing ease so I can move my arms easily.  It looks like the pictures from the website has the same “issue”.  I am just not sure if it is to the same extent that I see on myself.  This may be another question to take to sewing group to see what they think.

I just finished up another Maria Denmark Kirsten Kimono t-shirt.  Then next up is the McCall’s 6844.

 

 

 

Liesl & Co Gallery Tunic

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So I was just going to start on the Liesl & Co Late Lunch tunic when I did see that the middle of February, they were hosting a sew along for the Gallery tunic. I went ahead and picked up the pattern and searched my fabric stash for fabric.  I was able to find a lovely watercolor floral rayon challis to use (and since I have six yards of it there will probably be another top too).  Then I went along my merry way of putting together the Late lunch tunic (it is just waiting blog photos).

I used the same size I did for the late lunch (size 12). Then I went ahead and shortened the length by three inches.  And I followed the instructions included in the pattern for a full bust alteration (of five eighth of an inch) after I had shortened the pattern.

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I had removed two inches off the sleeve length. After finishing the sleeves are still way too long.  I am still trying to decide what I want to do to fix them.

As for the placket, I did go ahead and hand stitch it closed a couple of inches so it wouldn’t be so low.

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As of right now, the Late Lunch tunic and a crocheted hat are awaiting blog pictures. I would like to get the February quilt block done for the murder mystery quilt.  As for future sewing projects, most of the patterns I am considering are tops such as Liesl & Co Cappuccino tunic/ dress, and Style Arc’s May and Kendall tops.  Otherwise, the Pattern Review Winter Street dress, McCall’s 6696 shirt dress, and McCall’s 6844 cardigan are also being considered.  I guess I will decide when I start tracing this weekend.

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Floral blouse- McCall’s 7094

DSCI0030So after the Sew Small contest, I had worked on a pair of Ginger Jeans which look like a sewing fail because when I tried them on they were too tight in the waist. So instead of finishing the back pockets and button on those, I decide to cut out a top instead.

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I already knew that this pattern was very, very loose-fitting. So I picked up a smaller size pattern than usual (usually I try to pick up patterns with size 16 included). I decided to use a medium as I fell in between the small and medium on the finished garment bust measurement given on the pattern envelope.

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I did measure the back length (without the neckband) and it was right around 25.375 inches. For me, that there is borderline as to whether or not it is the length I like. I decided against lengthening the pattern an inch which for the medium length was the right choice for me. The top has a decent portion for the skinny jeans; it isn’t so long that you are looking like you are playing dress up and the fitted bottom the over-sized ness of it look better.

I used a rayon challis I had found off of an E-bay seller. For a rayon challis, this one has a thicker weight and is still draped well which is what is needed for this top.

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For the back yoke, I did use the Grainline’s burrito yoke method from the Alder dress (which I included the link at the bottom). I really liked how simple this was and the clean finish I got using the method.

The neckline instructions are tricky to follow. I don’t think I actually did this correctly. My main problem was the squared overlap at the bottom of the placket.

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I didn’t see this mentioned in any of the reviews I read. But just in case it wasn’t my error, double-check the bias piece for the arm scythe. My piece was small so it caused the arm area to be too high and small. I went ahead and redid it. I like the re-do better even if I ended up with a lower arm area than intended.

As for next project, I don’t think I am ready to re-try the Closet Case Files Ginger jeans again. The top project contenders look to be either a Queen Elite bra or the True Bias Sutton blouse.

 Burrito method (Grainline)