Queen Elite 2

Queen Elite (front)

Queen Elite (front)

So I finally made another Queen Elite bra from my class kit I got last year.  I made the same size as in the class a 37F.  However, this time I added an eighth of an inch on the center back (for a total of a quarter inch).  I did not make any changes to the length of elastics.  That definitely help the bra feel better.  My class one was just a touch too tight that it left red marks when I took it off.

Queen Elite (inside)

Queen Elite (inside)

This time, I decided to pre-stretch the channeling before applying it to the bra cups seam allowances.  It really helped me apply the channeling easier.  Probably not recommended but it gave me one item to focus my attention on at the time and that was stitching closely to the edge in the cup seam allowance.

Queen Elite (inside)

Queen Elite (inside)

I did pick up the new sizes of the Orange Lingerie Marlborough bra but I am not ready to try out a new pattern quite yet.

Last night, I did get four purses for the Sew Powerful Purse project cut out along with a skirt and my August murder mystery quilt block.

 

 

Seashell Ruffle doily

My mother absolutely adores doilies. In fact, she said the best Christmas present my grandmother ever gave her was a set of three hand crocheted doilies.

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Actually the Sea Shell Ruffle doily is the third doily I have made. For it I used Aunt Lydia’s Fashion 3 in Plum and Ecru.  I used a size H hook.  This doily took a whole ball of the purple thread.

This took a couple of tries to get started. Most of that is just lack of experience.  After that, the pattern was pretty easy to follow except for the final row.  I didn’t quite understand what was going on from reading the instructions.  So I made up a pattern and kept it up through the whole round as the final border.  I made sure to note it down on a post it note and put inside the book.

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Next doily will be A-792 Brocade from a Coats & Clark book (1969) for my bedroom dresser.

Vogue 7637

Here is my Vintage Pattern Contest entry. I chose Vogue 7637 from 1968.  Now there isn’t too many pictures because it is just too hot to wear a wool dress for any length of time.

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My pattern is a size 16 (bust 38, waist 30, and hips 40). I was fairly confident that the bust area would be fine but the waist is definitely too small.  I used the hinge method and added 1.5 inches to each side seam (front and back).  It may have been a little too much but at least it doesn’t look like the dress is a tent on me.  Anyways, it was better too large than too small.

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The length was shortened but I can’t remember if it was 3 inches or if it was 4 inches.

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So the other area that I did pattern modifications to was the sleeve. The original sleeve pattern looked too small.  Measuring at the bottom of the arm curve, I think it was around 14.5 inches.  Trying to measure myself, it looked like I needed 17 inches.  I split the pattern down the shoulder line then right under the arm hole curve and spread the additional 3 inches.  Unfortunately they were not the right changes as now the sleeve doesn’t feel right.  It is too tight when I move my arms.  I think it is because I made the sleeve head shallower.  The length of the sleeve is fine though.  But honestly, any more sleeve alterations will have to wait until it is cooler outside. I think some of my fitting troubles is because even in the air-conditioned indoors, it is just too hot that one always feels clammy.

Drape Drape 2 Top No. 4

DSCI0111I actually picked up the Drape Drape 3 book first but wasn’t certain if there was a great starter pattern in it for me to make. Therefore, I ordered Drape Drape 2 next.  I have seen several version of top number 4 on the internet and it looked like a good starting point.  Something not so overly dramatic that it isn’t wearable every day and as few of pieces as possible.

I did cut a trial out since I am above the limits of the X-Large. The only change made before the trial was to raise the neckline.  I raised it by 4 inches.  For the trial, I never put in the neckband piece.

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From the trial, I decided I needed a little more width in the hips. Also the right sleeve opening was a little tight.  The left side was cut along the seam allowance then hinged out about a half-inch (on both left sides).  Then I sliced the fold line on the right side and added a half-inch in there.   To make sure that the right sleeve opening wasn’t too tight, I added a little to the sleeve opening and tapered back to nothing at the neckline (on both right sides).

There are no pictures of the trial because I used the same navy blue fabric for it as I did for the final version.

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On to construction, this is a fairly easy top to put together. I did add quarter-inch clear elastic in the shoulders of the top to help keep the shape of the shoulders.  Since, I raised the neckline, the neckband dimensions given in the book would not work anymore.  I measured a new neckline length of 28.75 inches.  I used a 24.5 inch by 2 inch neckband.  Before final hemming, I tried on the top.  The length was near where I like tops to be at.  So instead of turning under the hem, I drafted a hem band of 46 inches by 3 inches.

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Reglisse Dress

So my friend’s wedding was near the end of June. I have been helping her out some for it.  She requested that I wear something in the colors of her wedding and that it be something I would be able to wear everyday not a special occasion.  I wasn’t certain what I should make until I came across this cotton shirting on Fabric-Mart’s website. The first pattern that came to mind was Deer & Doe’s Reglisse dress.  (It was right after Pattern Review’s weekend and I had seen Deepika’s cute Reglisse dress.)  I knew it would be a perfect combo for the wedding.

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I really didn’t have time to make a muslin to double-check size. So erring on the hope it is enough, I traced out a 44 in the bust and graded to 46 in the waist.  I have made Deer & Doe’s Airelle blouse before and knew that I used a smaller seam allowance for a better fit with the size 42 at the bust.

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The fabric was only 45 inches wide, so I changed the two piece circle skirt to four piece circle skirt. Since the fabric is a nice weight Japanese cotton shirting, I did skip interfacing on the tie collar.  I was concerned that the tie collar would end up being too heavy with the interfacing and would not roll.

As Deepika suggested, I went over to The Little Tailoress’ blog and looked at her construction changes to the pattern. I did use some of the suggestions just not all the hand sewing.

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For future uses of the pattern, I will have to lower the bust dart at least an inch.   I think that also caused some of the awkward flatness in front.   I did also have the Bruyere top traced out.  So a quick comparison of the two front bodice pieces, show that the bust darts on the Bruyere are lower than the Reglisse (just lining up the under arm on each piece).  I am not sure if Reglisse is just a special case or if I would have to do this on all Deer & Doe patterns.

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I just saw over on Deer & Doe’s blog that the Reglisse dress is up next on being updated.

http://sewinglondon.co.uk/deer-and-doe-reglisse/

Jalie 2921- Scarf Collared Top

Pattern Review Weekend included a panel of independent pattern designers. At the weekend, I did purchase the famous Jalie Eleonore jeans.  But after the weekend, I went on their website and purchased a top pattern.  I had not used Jalie patterns before so I wanted something that I knew I would be able to complete before tackling jeans.

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All my measurements were a size Z. I did take a waist measurement on the pattern just to make sure there wasn’t too much negative ease at the waist.  I can’t remember what I measured out for the size Z waist line.  It was definitely not under my waist measurement otherwise, I would have graded the pattern out at the waist.  My personal preference on knit tops is zero negative ease.

Since it has been so hot lately, I decide on the sleeveless in View B.

I used a navy rayon jersey that I had in stash (which will be also used in a future t-shirt project). It worked very well for the top and gives enough drape for the tie collar. The construction was very easy.  I think I had a top in three hours at most.

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For future makes of the sleeveless, I want to raise the under arm about a half-inch maybe less. Just because I haven’t used Jalie before, I would probably use the plain size Z without any under arm alterations for a make with sleeves before settling on any alterations for the views with sleeves.

Ruffled Chain bracelet

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I have finally finished up the Ruffled Chain bracelet from Beadwork’s February/ March 2011 issue. This bracelet shouldn’t have taken as long as it did.  Remember I posted the earrings I made from the pattern back in June 25, 2014.  I did start this when I got the supplies in July 2014. But I ended up having to redo the complete bracelet twice!  The bracelet got put on hold for quite a while.

I absolutely can’t stand the clasp that was written into the pattern instructions. It was the reason I had to redo the bracelet twice.  I started with the button and odd-count circular peyote stitch loop.  My first button was a crystal rivoli button (which probably wasn’t the best choice).  The thickness of the crystal rivoli button hampered the clasp.  I just did it to make it around the circle but when I was finished the odd count loop was just too tight to make it around the rivoli because of the thickness.  I had beads in the loop break and the clasp wasn’t very secure.

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Second try didn’t seem to fair much better than the first. This time I tried a crystal 4 hole button (so it was flatter).  I really didn’t want to hassle with trying to make another odd count circular peyote stitched loop, so I used a simple beaded loop (I probably went through the beads at least three times).  That loop didn’t last long either, as I am putting the button through more beads crack and break.

So the project stayed shoved in a Clinique bag for at least a year, year and a half before I decided to redo it again. I think the real push was the teal t-shirts that I recently made.  But this was going to be the last time I ever make this exact bracelet again.  That means that the clasp had to be changed.  In my beading stash, there was a large silver lobster claw clasp, so that was what I used.  The other end is a simple loop for the lobster claw clasp to hook on.

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If I had put more thought into the clasp change, a beaded toggle clasp would have really worked well here.

As for the Beadwork stats, they rated the project 2 beads (advance beginner/ intermediate) and uses circular peyote stitch, herringbone stitch, and picots. I think the rating is a little high; really the tricky part is getting a good tension on the circular peyote stitched circle for the ruffled links (I am not even considering the clasp in the review of difficulty).